French Jewelry Hallmarks Decoded: A Collector’s Guide

What Are French Jewelry Hallmarks?

French jewelry has a rich legacy of regulation and craftsmanship. Unlike many other countries, France developed a highly detailed system of hallmarking that includes national marks, regional offices, and the unique “lozenge” or maker’s mark.

A typical French hallmark will include:

• A metal purity mark (e.g., eagle’s head for 18K gold)

• A maker’s mark (within a diamond-shaped lozenge)

• Occasionally a warranty or import/export mark

These marks are small but powerful indicators of authenticity, age, and artistic value—especially in antique jewelry.

French Gold Hallmarks: National Symbols

France uses animal-head symbols to denote gold purity, enforced by government assay offices.

Silver jewelry and flatware are also tightly regulated in France, with their own symbols.

Purity	Hallmark	Years in Use	Usage

950 Silver

Minerva’s Head (1st titre)

1838–present

Used for high-purity silver

800 Silver

Minerva’s Head (2nd titre)

1838–present

Slightly lower-purity silver

Foreign Silver

Boar’s Head

1838–present

Used when imported silver was marked in Paris only

800/900 Silver

Crab

1838–present

A general silver mark from regional assay offices

The Minerva’s head is the key symbol of high-quality French silver, often facing right with a numeral beside it indicating purity.

Maker’s Marks: The French Lozenge

In addition to national hallmarks, France requires a maker’s mark engraved inside a diamond-shaped cartouche (lozenge), typically bearing:

• Two initials (the maker)

• A small symbol or motif (optional)

This lozenge system is unique to France, and it’s one of the most precise methods of tracing who made a piece. Databases exist for identifying thousands of historical French makers by these marks.

For example, a lozenge with “AB” and a star may correspond to a specific 19th-century Parisian atelier.

Where Are French Hallmarks Found?

• On rings: near the inner band, sometimes opposite the maker’s mark

• On bracelets/necklaces: near the clasp

• On brooches: behind the pin mechanism

• On earrings: near the post or clip

Use a jeweler’s loupe or macro lens to identify the tiny marks clearly.

Verifying Authenticity

French hallmarks are some of the most trustworthy in the world—but you still need to evaluate them in context. Watch for:

• Sharp detail: Genuine stamps are crisp, even on worn items

• Correct location: Hallmarks are often placed logically (not random or decorative)

• Proper pairing: An eagle’s head should be accompanied by a lozenge, not a lion or anchor (those are British)

If the marks look incomplete, fake, or mismatched, the piece may have been altered—or it may not be French at all.

At DSF Antique Jewelry, we thoroughly verify French hallmarks and maker’s marks before adding a piece to our collection.

Common Misunderstandings

• The eagle’s head doesn’t always mean Paris. It’s a national hallmark used across France.

• The lozenge mark is not a government hallmark—it’s the maker’s personal stamp.

• French silver sometimes has both the crab and Minerva marks depending on region and export status.

Reference Chart 

• Eagle’s Head 

• Minerva Head
  

• Boar’s Head

• Crab

• Lozenge sample

 

Browse French Hallmarked Jewelry

Explore our curated collection of authentic French gold and silver jewelry, including pieces from the Art Nouveau and Belle Époque periods—all inspected for proper hallmarks.
➡ Browse French Jewelry Collection

Conclusion

French hallmarks are more than just legal symbols—they are stamps of heritage, artistry, and national pride. Whether you’re collecting for beauty or investment, understanding these marks gives you deeper insight into a piece’s origin and value.

Keep this guide bookmarked, and explore the artistry behind each hallmark with the confidence of an informed collector.