Jewelry Throughout Centuries: History and Evolution
Who can resist the sparkle of a precious stone, the mysterious glow of a pearl, or the enchanting brilliance of gold? Jewelry-making, one of the oldest forms of artistic expression, encapsulates deep human emotions and fulfills our innate desires to adorn, honor, and beautify.
More than mere decoration, jewelry symbolizes immortality—its durable materials preserve the mysteries of creation and eternity.
In his book "Jewelry," L. Giltay-Nijssen explores how throughout history, precious stones and metals have not only symbolized power, wealth, and status but also brought prosperity and joy, while at times fueling conflict and war.
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Their influence is ancient—Babylonian artisans polished gemstones long before the Christian era, and Egyptian craftsmen created golden ornaments as early as 4000 B.C.
Emeralds were mentioned in ancient Egyptian texts, and Cleopatra's famed emerald mines were renowned well beyond her kingdom.
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Jewelry often reflects the personality of its wearer, echoing their character, tastes, and habits. It serves as a mirror to societal customs, values, and identity.
A historian once remarked, "Montrez-moi les bijoux d'une nation, et je dirai qu'elle est." ("Show me a nation's jewelry, and I will tell you what it is.") While perhaps an overstatement, it underscores the truth that jewelry provides insight into the cultural and social fabric of a people.
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Jewelry's role as a critical element of fashion means it evolves alongside changing trends. Giltay-Nijssen delves into this relationship, examining how jewelry styles have shifted over time.
Certain pieces are strongly associated with specific historical periods, reflecting cultural evolution. For example, a medieval pendant would look out of place on a modern evening gown.
Likewise, the extravagant brooches, necklaces, and rings once worn by men to parties might surprise today’s observers—Henry III was envied for his exquisite earrings, and Louis XIV dazzled at a ball in an outfit encrusted with thousands of diamonds.
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L. Giltay-Nijssen notes that one of the earliest instances of a commoner wearing diamonds was Agnes Sorel at the court of Charles VII. In England, diamond rings were once the exclusive purview of the elite during the Elizabethan era. However, as the power of royalty and the aristocracy waned, jewelry became more accessible.
Some designs that gained popularity around 1760—particularly those from the opulent court of Versailles—remain fashionable today, creating a direct link to our contemporary styles.
Fashion and Jewelry at the Eighteenth-Century Court
The eighteenth century marked an era of splendor and indulgence, characterized by elegance and refinement at the European courts.
While the grand baroque style of Louis XIV emphasized rigid formality and overwhelming opulence, his successors adopted a more graceful and playful sophistication. This transition was most pronounced at Versailles, the glittering heart of aristocratic fashion and excess.
The Art of Adornment
Court attire during this period demanded extravagance. Women’s gowns were crafted from luxurious silks, satins, and muslins, featuring deep décolletés, fitted bodices, and expansive skirts supported by elaborate panniers.
These sculptural forms created an ethereal, floating effect, further accentuated by white-powdered coiffures, high heels, delicate lace, and elaborate embroidery. Every detail, from carefully placed beauty patches to intoxicating scents of imported perfumes, was a mark of status.
Jewelry played a pivotal role in amplifying this display of grandeur. Evening wear necessitated elaborate parures—sets of matching necklaces, brooches, earrings, bracelets, and corsage ornaments cascading down a tightly cinched waist.
Tiara-adorned hairstyles reflected candlelight, lending the wearer an air of majesty. By contrast, daytime jewelry was more subdued, often featuring cabochon-cut garnets, agate, amber, and crystal to complement the softer hues of morning dress.
A distinctive jewelry technique of the time was the box setting, especially for rose-cut diamonds. Jewelers placed silver leaf or tin foil beneath the stones to enhance their brilliance. Some pieces even incorporated black foil, creating an exceptionally deep, mysterious glow, ensuring the gems flickered enchantingly under candlelight.
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The Shift in Men's Fashion
By the mid-eighteenth century, men’s fashion had become decidedly less ostentatious than women’s. Although noblemen continued to wear rich fabrics, their once lavishly adorned ensembles gradually transitioned to more understated elegance.
The aristocratic man, who had once flaunted brooches, earrings, and gem-encrusted shoe buckles, now reserved the brilliance of jewelry largely for his female counterparts.
Yet, jewelry remained a potent status symbol. Stones were frequently reset into new arrangements, allowing aristocrats to showcase fresh designs without the cost of acquiring new gems.
In some traditions, such as those in Scandinavia, bridal parures remained significant, with churches or town halls lending brides elaborate jewelry sets to ensure they shone brightest on their wedding day.
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Jewelry as Power and Prestige
Beyond mere personal adornment, jewelry has historically played a pivotal role in courtly traditions. Chivalric orders like the Order of the Holy Ghost and the Order of the Golden Fleece were not only masterpieces of craftsmanship but also potent symbols of loyalty and noble prestige.
Miniature family portraits, often set in diamond-studded frames, were reserved for royalty, serving as intimate keepsakes and potent political statements.
Few figures epitomized the extravagance of eighteenth-century jewelry as vividly as Louis XV's mistresses, Madame de Pompadour and Madame du Barry.
Celebrated for her refined taste, Madame de Pompadour patronized jewelers and cameo carvers, influencing court fashion trends.
In contrast, Madame du Barry, known for her insatiable appetite for luxury, amassed a staggering collection of diamonds, pearls, emeralds, and rubies. Her fortune was plundered during the Revolution, and her desperate attempts to recover her stolen jewels ultimately led to her downfall and execution.
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The Democratic Shift and the Revolution in Jewelry
As the eighteenth century drew to a close, the grandeur of courtly life began to crumble. The French Revolution dismantled the aristocracy's dominance, forcing many nobles into exile and their treasures to be abandoned or seized.
Jewelry, once a symbol of power and privilege, turned into a perilous liability—those who clung to their finery risked being branded as enemies of the Republic and faced the guillotine.
Revolutionary emblems replaced traditional adornments; earrings shaped like Jacobin caps or miniature guillotines became bold political statements. Some even adorned themselves with jewelry made from stones of the demolished Bastille, transforming relics of the past into macabre tokens of a radically changing world.
Yet, even in tumultuous times, the allure of luxury persisted.
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With the rise of Napoleon, France once again embraced opulence. The newly crowned Emperor revitalized courtly extravagance, hosting grand receptions where jewelry reclaimed its prominent role.
His Empress, Josephine, became a paramount tastemaker, amassing an exquisite collection of diamonds, emeralds, and cameos.
Inspired by the grandeur of Ancient Rome, Napoleon ensured that France remained the epicenter of fashion, promoting a neoclassical aesthetic that melded imperial majesty with timeless elegance.
A Changing Market: From Aristocracy to Accessibility
While the aristocracy had long reigned over the realm of fine jewelry, by the late eighteenth century, the market began to shift towards greater accessibility.
Wealthy families continued to commission bespoke pieces from prestigious workshops, yet haberdasheries began offering more affordable trinkets to the burgeoning bourgeoisie.
Filigree jewelry, meticulously crafted by young artisans—some as young as twelve—gained popularity until child labor laws curtailed their involvement. Meanwhile, Josiah Wedgwood's painted porcelain jewelry emerged as a fashionable, less costly alternative to precious gemstones.
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Jewelry design evolved alongside broader artistic movements, drawing parallels with contemporary furniture and architecture.
The opulence of previous decades gave way to austerity and symmetry, with designs favoring flat forms and restrained yet elegant motifs. Popular elements included vines, grape clusters, clover leaves, and palm or laurel branches, often paired with Greek and Roman profile portraits.
Between 1806 and 1810, gold jewelry captivated fashionable women. Rows of delicate gold necklaces, stacked bracelets, and ornate rings became staples of female adornment. Many pieces featured miniature mosaics or flat insets from Rome or Venice, reflecting a deep fascination with antiquity.
The Venetian jaseron necklace, with its finely linked gold chain, was particularly coveted. While men generally donned less jewelry, smooth or engraved earrings persisted as subtle nods to the prevailing trends.
By 1815, cameos had made their way to the Russian court in St. Petersburg, introduced by the Duchess of Devonshire, wife of the British Ambassador. At a grand ball, she wore an eye-catching cameo parure—a less expensive yet equally striking alternative to the diamond-studded jewels worn by other noblewomen.
This trend quickly spread, with shell cameos set in gold or copper becoming particularly popular in Italy. Germany produced more affordable versions in colored glass or baked porcelain, expanding the reach and appeal of cameo jewelry.
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The Evolution of Jewelry Styles
Between 1810 and 1840, the trend for graniti jewelry, distinguished by its granulated gold bead texture, flourished.
German artisans were at the forefront, pioneering the production of cast iron jewelry that featured openwork iron medallions depicting classical scenes.
These innovative techniques continued to shape the industry, underscoring jewelry's role not only as a luxury but also as a reflection of broader social and artistic transformations.
The Restoration Era and the Evolution of Jewelry
The Restoration period in France marked a stagnation in jewelry design. The return of the Bourbons and their aristocratic supporters did little to refine public taste.
Fashion reverted, with Napoleonic emblems like the bee and the eagle replaced by the lily, yet without any significant stylistic evolution from the Directorate, Consulate, and Empire periods. Aristocrats eager to erase Napoleon’s legacy often dismantled and redesigned his recovered jewels in the ornate 18th-century style.
This era showcased a stark contrast between the Bourbon-era's frills, wigs, and powdered faces, and the restrained military grandeur of former Napoleonic officers now aligned with the new regime. Aristocratic women, many of whom had sold their jewelry during exile, sought luxurious yet cost-effective alternatives upon their return.
Loyalist exiles, restored to influence, opted for opulent yet economical designs. Large gold settings featuring semi-precious stones like topaz, amethysts, and aquamarines created parures that looked more valuable than they were, epitomizing the era's ethos of achieving grandeur at minimal cost.
The City of Paris’ wedding gift to the Duke of Berry—a set adorned with imitation stones—reflected the financial strain of 25 years of war and revolution.
Shifts in Fashion and the Rise of Naturalistic Jewelry
The economic realities of the time forced the nobility to adopt simpler styles. The opulence of the Napoleonic era was now frowned upon, as estates suffered from mismanagement. Symbolic adornments like real lilies temporarily replaced gemstone jewelry, and full parures became a rarity.
Influenced by the emerging Biedermeier aesthetic, fashion returned to more natural waistlines and modesty, overshadowing the dramatic styles of the past.
By 1830, fashion emphasized oversized leg-of-mutton sleeves and flared skirts, which made jewelry like necklaces and bracelets less essential—though bracelets were sometimes worn over sleeves. Evening attire, however, still embraced a degree of grandeur, with enormous toques embellished with pearls and feathers.
A novel trend emerged—the "week ring", akin to the motto bracelet, featuring seven stones each symbolizing a day of the week.
By 1820, as France recovered from wartime hardships, jewelers resumed crafting diamond jewelry featuring naturalistic themes like flowers and butterflies, which remained popular for nearly five decades.
The assassination of the Duke of Berry in 1820 triggered a surge in mourning jewelry. Iron and jet became particularly favored, with black iron cameo necklaces and fine chain-linked bracelets dominating the market. Even religious jewelry adopted somber tones, reflecting the growing political unrest that would lead to the July Revolution.
Hunting motifs became fashionable during Charles X's reign, and the ferronnière, a jewel worn at the forehead inspired by Leonardo da Vinci's La Belle Ferronnière, made a dramatic comeback. By 1840, these forehead adornments had become more elaborate, often featuring intricate side ornaments woven into the wearer’s hair.
Another Revival: The Velvet Ribbon Choker
The late 19th century witnessed the return of the velvet ribbon choker, distinguished by its striking brooch clasp at the front. This era also saw naturalistic designs evolve, incorporating delicate diamond "pampilles" suspended from floral settings—a style that remained popular for the next 35 years.
The Romantic Era and the Revival of Historical Motifs
By 1848, gold brooches and bracelets mimicking aged wood or branches became fashionable, alongside jewelry inspired by Gothic and Renaissance art.
The Romantic movement embraced sentimental motifs and revived styles from past civilizations, including Egyptian and Napoleonic themes. Some designs drew inspiration from unique sources, such as the giraffe presented to the Paris Zoo, which sparked giraffe motifs in jewelry.
However, the craftsmanship of this period often lagged behind that of earlier master artisans, with a focus on mass appeal rather than meticulous detail.
By 1870, jewelry designs prioritized sturdiness over intricate metalwork. The riviére necklace, which featured diamonds set in a coarse or invisible setting (monture illusoire), emphasized the brilliance of gemstones at the expense of detailed metalwork. This era favored affordability over artistry, as noted by Vever: "Beauty was not yet necessary, but affordability was."
Nonetheless, top-tier jewelers like Wagner, Jean-Valentin Morel, Fossin, and Froment-Meurice continued to maintain high standards of craftsmanship.
French jewelers solidified their international reputation at the 1851 Great Exhibition in London, where the intricate, historical designs of artisans like Froment-Meurice received widespread acclaim.
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The Influence of Empress Eugénie and the Decline of Royal Fashion
The marriage of Napoleon III to Eugénie de Montijo was marked by the resetting of the French Crown Jewels in the style reminiscent of Marie Antoinette's era, reflecting Eugénie's fondness for Louis XVI's aesthetics.
While Eugénie's influence did not lead to groundbreaking innovations, her preferences set trends, such as the pairing of elegant pearl necklaces with low-cut gowns to accentuate her shoulders.
Following the fall of the Second Empire in 1870 and France's shift to a republic, royal influence on fashion waned, leading to a period of stagnation in jewelry design. However, artistic movements like the Barbizon School hinted at an impending revolution in jewelry aesthetics, signaling a shift towards more innovative and expressive designs.
Jewelry Development in England (1830–1880)
The Gothic architectural revival, marked by the 1834 redesign of the new Houses of Parliament, set the stage for stylistic changes in English jewelry.
It was not until 1839, however, that Romanticism began significantly influencing jewelry trends, catalyzing a demand for extravagant and innovative luxury.
This period saw rapidly evolving fashions and a boom in jewelry production.
The Influence of Queen Victoria
Queen Victoria was a major trendsetter in jewelry, influencing the style through her personal choices and significant gifting traditions.
The corbeille, a wedding tradition where the groom presented the bride with a basket of jewelry, became a focal point of public interest, with lavish gifts often detailed in the newspapers for those unable to attend the ceremonies.
The discovery of gold in California (1849) and Australia (1851) reignited enthusiasm for gold jewelry in England, sparking innovations in delicate chasing and enameling techniques. Sentimental jewelry, including miniature portraits and bracelets containing her children's first teeth, became a favorite of the Queen for everyday wear.
The middle class also gained greater access to jewelry, though distinctions were clear between fine gold and gemstone pieces and more affordable alternatives crafted from materials like silver, coral, jet, ivory, and pinchbeck—a gold-like alloy invented by Christopher Pinchbeck, a London watchmaker.
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Literary and Cultural Influences
Walter Scott’s novels ignited a passion for Scottish motifs, which Queen Victoria embraced, reflecting her pride in her Stuart heritage. This enthusiasm translated into the popularity of clan badges in various jewelry forms such as brooches, earrings, and buckles.
Other notable influences included Irish and Assyrian designs, the latter spurred by Layard's 1848 publication Nineveh and Its Remains, with motifs like lotus flowers and rosettes becoming popular in flexible bracelets.
The interest in archaeological jewelry surged, in part due to France's military campaigns in Algeria and North Africa, leading to the popularity of the "Algerian button" motif in brooches.
Coral jewelry also became fashionable, particularly after the Duchess of Aumale received coral pieces from her Sicilian husband. While Italian artisans from Genoa and Naples dominated the coral market, English jeweler Robert Philips gained recognition for his coral work, earning royal commendation in 1870.
The Rise of Souvenir and Mourning Jewelry
The market for souvenir jewelry expanded significantly, featuring items like Swiss-carved ivory and brooches with Whitby fossils, often shaped like coiled serpents. White parian porcelain, an affordable yet fragile substitute for ivory, was popular for brooches and bracelet clasps decorated with floral designs.
Following Prince Albert's death in 1861, Queen Victoria's extended mourning period profoundly influenced jewelry trends.
Whitby jet became highly sought after, leading to the growth of the Whitby jet industry, which expanded from a single workshop in 1808 to over 200 by 1873. French jet, a black glass imitation, also became popular, though it lacked the durability of genuine Whitby jet.
Women's Changing Roles and Jewelry Trends
By the 1860s, as women began to gain greater social standing through more active participation in politics, education, and sports, jewelry trends evolved to match these shifts. Jewelry became bolder, more colorful, and sturdier to reflect women's changing roles. Large lockets, intricate earrings, and heavy bracelets became popular.
As fashion incorporated increasingly elaborate elements like flounces, bows, and drapery, jewelry designs followed suit, featuring gold beading, filigree work, and playful motifs such as animal figures and household objects.
The emergence of costume jewelry allowed women to keep up with rapidly changing fashion trends without significant expense. Machine-made jewelry became more accessible, including affordable parures made from Abyssinian gold, a convincing gold imitation.
The 1880s: A Shift in Jewelry Design
The 1880s marked a significant turning point in jewelry design. The Castellani family in Rome, renowned for their reproductions of Etruscan jewelry, gained prominence.
For the first time, diamond jewelry became accessible to the non-royal elite, with American industrial magnates leading the trend for grand, extravagant designs. Floral and fruit motifs, crafted entirely from diamonds, became fashionable, as did the use of colorless stones and pearls.
Silver jewelry also rose in popularity, particularly heavy lockets that featured compartments for keeping hair or photographs.
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Piqué Jewelry and Huguenot Influence
The Huguenots introduced piqué jewelry to England, a technique involving the inlaying of gold or silver into tortoiseshell or ivory. By 1860, piqué jewelry had become widespread, with mass production centered in Birmingham, particularly noted for crucifixes.
As the century drew to a close, jewelry continued to reflect both historical influences and the social and technological advancements of the Victorian era, mirroring the complexity and dynamism of this transformative period.
Late Victorian and Edwardian Era (1880s-1910s)
As the Victorian era waned and the world moved into the Edwardian period, jewelry designs became even more elaborate.
With the advent of new diamond cutting techniques and the introduction of platinum, jewelry from this period featured intricate lace-like designs, often embellished with a profusion of diamonds.
The societal changes of the time, including increased women's rights and the advent of the automobile, influenced jewelry to become both more delicate and more practical for daily wear.
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Art Nouveau and Art Deco Periods (1890s-1930s)
Following the Edwardian era, the Art Nouveau movement brought a radical shift in jewelry design, focusing on natural forms, flowing lines, and colorful enamels.
Designers like René Lalique and Louis Comfort Tiffany championed this style, which emphasized craftsmanship and artistry over sheer opulen
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As the world moved into the 1920s and 1930s, Art Deco took over with its geometric shapes, bold colors, and emphasis on modernity, reflecting the technological advances and cultural shifts of the post-World War I era.
Mid-20th Century to Modern Day
Post-World War II jewelry reflected both the austerity of the times and a burst of creativity and innovation as economies recovered.
The mid-20th century saw the rise of minimalist designs, where less was more, and the focus shifted towards the quality of materials and simplicity rather than ornamentation.
As the century progressed, the influence of pop culture and the rise of celebrity endorsements brought new styles into vogue, with major brands and designers at the forefront of trends.
Today, the jewelry market is highly diverse, incorporating both high-end luxury pieces and accessible fashion jewelry that reflects contemporary styles and technological advancements.
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