Roman Jewelry – A Story Of The Ages
Roman jewelry is a captivating reflection of the tastes and ideals of ancient Roman society, serving as both a form of creative expression and a significant social symbol.
In Rome, jewelry transcended gender and social status, with each piece carrying distinct meanings and symbolism.
The Artistry of Cameos and Intaglios
Among the most prestigious forms of Roman jewelry were cameos and intaglios, crafted by skilled artisans who meticulously carved semi-precious gemstones to create intricate patterns and motifs.
Intaglios featured elaborate engravings sunk into the stone, often depicting mythical scenes, portraits, or symbolic motifs, while cameos presented raised relief images on the jewel's surface.
Ancient Roman Silver Carnelian Intaglio Ring - DSF Antique Jewelry
Jewelry in the Roman Empire
The foundation of the Roman Empire in 27 BC by Octavian, who became the first emperor under the name "Augustus," marked a period where jewelry's popularity as personal adornment soared.
Jewelry in ancient Rome was not merely ornamental but served as a powerful marker of identity, wealth, and rank, with elaborate necklaces, earrings, carved rings, and bracelets commonly worn.
Unlike the Greeks, who primarily focused on the craftsmanship of fine metals, Roman jewelry was distinguished by a keen interest in colored gemstones and glass.
This period in Rome is noted for its rich history of intricate jewelry designs, utilizing a broad spectrum of materials including glass beads and stones in every imaginable color.
Ancient Roman Agate Intaglio Gold Men’s Ring - DSF Antique Jewelry
Cultural Influences and Material Wealth
The variety and skills in Roman jewelry making were further enhanced by the influences of the diverse civilizations the Romans admired, along with the natural materials available across their vast conquered territories in the Mediterranean.
An extensive network of trade routes also enabled the Romans to access materials that were otherwise unreachable, such as semi-precious and precious stones from distant lands along the Silk Road through Persia, India, and beyond.
Ancient Roman Coin Carved Emerald 18K Gold Fob Brooch - DSF Antique Jewelry
Social Significance and Public Persona
Romans placed great emphasis on display and the imitation of expensive materials, reflecting their consciousness of public persona. Men and women adorned their homes and bodies with jewelry to flaunt their wealth, influence, power, and expertise.
Over time, the symbolism of jewelry evolved—from representing familial position among Republic noblewomen to signifying individual achievement and prestige among Imperial noblewomen.
To illustrate their status, Roman elites, such as senators and administrators, often wore gold rings with large, conspicuous gemstones, while commoners typically wore iron rings unless granted a gold one.
Influence and Legacy
The Hellenistic style, which heavily borrowed elements from the Egyptians and other major civilizations, gained popularity in the early Roman Empire. As these styles disseminated throughout the Empire, Roman jewelry profoundly influenced numerous other cultures.
With gold as the primary material, Roman goldsmiths had access to a diverse array of decorative techniques, further showcasing the depth of Roman craftsmanship.
The legacy of Roman jewelry is a testament to its enduring influence on the aesthetics and techniques of jewelry making, continuing to inspire modern designs and cultural appreciations.
Jewelry and Gender in Ancient Rome
In Ancient Rome, the use of jewelry varied significantly based on social status, age, and gender, reflecting the deeply ingrained societal norms of the time. Jewelry was not merely decorative but was imbued with social and cultural significance, particularly among the aristocracy.
Women's Jewelry
Roman women typically wore and owned more jewelry than their male counterparts. It was common for women to wear a single pair of earrings along with multiple rings, bracelets, and a choker-style necklace simultaneously.
Jewelry held a special place in the lives of Roman women, not only as a symbol of beauty and status but also as a form of personal property. Unlike other assets, which might be controlled by their husbands, jewelry was considered a woman's own possession.
Women had the autonomy to buy, sell, bequeath, or exchange their jewelry as they saw fit. This autonomy allowed women to maintain a form of independence and financial security.
In the public sphere, the elegance and extravagance of a woman’s adornments were seen as a reflection of her husband’s status, making jewelry a crucial element of familial prestige.
Men's Jewelry
Contrasting with the ornate collections worn by women, Roman men typically adorned themselves with less jewelry. The most common pieces worn by men included fibulae (used to fasten garments) and finger rings.
Unlike Greek men who traditionally wore a single ring, Roman men often wore multiple rings, especially those of senatorial rank who were entitled to wear gold rings.
This distinction in ring-wearing habits underscored the differences in social practices between Roman and Greek cultures.
Rare Ancient Roman Intaglio Gold Men's Ring - DSF Antique Jewelry
Children's Jewelry
For Roman children, jewelry often served a protective rather than a decorative function. Amulets, frequently worn around the neck, were particularly popular for children.
These amulets were believed to protect the wearer from diseases and misfortune, embodying the Roman concern for health and safety from a young age.
Cultural Significance
The distinctions in jewelry usage across different genders and social classes highlight the complex role that adornments played in Roman society.
Jewelry was more than a mere accessory; it was a potent symbol of identity, status, and protection, woven deeply into the fabric of Roman life.
This historical perspective provides a deeper understanding of how societal values and norms can be reflected and reinforced through the art of jewelry making.
3rd Century AD Roman Bronze Coin 18K Gold Cufflinks - DSF Antique Jewelry
Types of Roman Jewelry
Roman jewelry was not only a display of artistic craftsmanship but also a reflection of social status and personal protection against the supernatural. Here's a closer look at the various types of jewelry worn in Ancient Rome:
Rings
Rings in Roman society were significant symbols of status. Senators and bureaucrats wore large, striking rings with prominent gemstones to clearly signal their social standing.
Commoners were generally restricted to iron rings, although gold rings could be awarded as tokens of valor in combat.
Roman rings varied greatly in design, ranging from simple motifs to elaborate patterns, and were made from materials such as silver, gold, bronze, iron, and jet.
Bracelets
Roman bracelets were crafted from a variety of materials including bronze, bone, and jet, each differing in size and design. Some bracelets featured twisted metal, while others were adorned with decorations; clasps varied from simple hooks and loops to complex hinges.
During the Iron Age, bracelets were also made from shale, a soft rock used for both jewelry and utilitarian objects. These bracelets, often found as grave goods, indicate that they were worn by all ages, including babies and children.
Amulets
Superstition played a significant role in Roman jewelry choices, with amulets used extensively to ward off the evil eye and other malevolent influences. Freeborn youths wore a bulla—an amulet pouch which might include a phallus for protection.
Depending on one's social class, the bullae were made from leather, bronze, or gold. The materials used for phallic amulets varied widely, including bronze, gold, silver, jewels, ivory, amber, and even green glass.
These amulets were often linked to vitality and protection, with specific stones associated with different deities, enhancing their supposed protective powers.
Etruscan golden bulla from the 3rd Century BC - Source: Metropolitan Museum of Art via Wikimedia Commons
Earrings
Earrings were among the earliest types of jewelry crafted and worn in the Roman Empire, primarily by women to enhance their facial features and display social status. Amethyst, believed to protect against intoxication, was a popular choice for earrings, reflecting its mystical properties.
Necklaces
Necklaces were universally popular among both the wealthy and the common folk of Rome. Their popularity surged when emperors began the tradition of awarding necklaces to victors, symbolizing honor and achievement.
Romans typically preferred pendant necklaces that featured gemstones set in precious metals or bore the embossed likeness of the emperor, over simpler choker-style necklaces.
The intricate array of Roman jewelry highlights the complexity of their society, where jewelry served multiple functions—from personal adornment and social status to spiritual protection.
Each piece tells a story of historical significance, artistry, and cultural values that transcended mere decoration and entered the realm of personal and societal identity markers.
Cutting Processes in Ancient Roman Jewelry Making
Ancient Roman jewelry artisans were highly skilled in various cutting techniques, which allowed them to create intricate and symbolic pieces that were both functional and decorative.
Engraving
According to Reynold Higgins, engraving on gold has been practiced since the Late Minoan period, though it was sporadic.
During the Copper Age, copper tools or obsidian flakes likely facilitated engraving, given copper’s brittleness. In the Roman era, gemstone engraving became a highly valued art form, reserved for the most skilled artisans due to the hardness of the gemstones.
These craftsmen used abrasive powders made from harder gem substances to carve designs into stones over months.
The complexity of these engravings ensured that seals could not be easily replicated, adding a layer of security for the owner. While intaglios were commonly used as seals, they were also worn purely for their aesthetic appeal.
Piercing
By the end of the Roman period, artisans commonly employed chisels to cut out designs from sheet gold, a technique known as opus interrasile. This method, although seen in early Etruscan works, did not become widespread until the second century A.D.
The intricate cut-outs allowed for the creation of detailed and delicate jewelry designs that enhanced the beauty and intricacy of the pieces.
Constantine 18K Gold Bronze Ancient Roman Coin Cufflinks - DSF Antique Jewelry
Ornaments & Seals Used by the Romans
Wreaths
Developed for Roman imperial use during the late Hellenistic period, these wreaths were made from stylized leaves sewn onto a cloth background, typically grouped in threes.
They are most commonly found in first- and second-century A.D. burial sites in South Russia.
The age of these wreaths can sometimes be determined through coin impressions found at the center, providing historical insights into their period and usage.
Hair Ornaments
Mummy portraits reveal that Roman women often used hairpins, sometimes crafted from gold, to manage and adorn their hairstyles. These hair ornaments not only served practical purposes but also added a touch of elegance and status to a woman's appearance.
Seals
Seals were significant in Roman culture, often featuring mythological scenes and characters. Rings, not necessarily made by traditional goldsmiths, commonly featured these seals. Rings were worn by all social classes as status symbols, though their purposes varied: women wore them solely for decoration, while men's rings had functional uses.
Popular gemstones for these rings included garnet, carnelian, and agate, known for their beauty and durability.
The diverse techniques and materials used in Roman jewelry making highlight the advanced skills of ancient artisans and the cultural importance of jewelry in Roman society. From functional seals to decorative wreaths and hair ornaments, each piece tells a story of historical significance and artisanal craftsmanship.
Materials Used in Roman Jewelry
Roman jewelry-making was a sophisticated craft that utilized a diverse array of materials, ranging from precious metals to imported gemstones and innovative uses of glass.
This variety not only showcased the Romans' expansive trade networks but also their ingenuity in crafting techniques that made jewelry accessible to different classes of society.
Imported Gemstones
The Romans imported a variety of semi-precious stones from distant lands, enriching their jewelry with a global essence. From Egypt, they acquired lapis lazuli, garnets, emeralds, peridots, and jasper, which they commonly set into elaborate earrings.
The Persian Gulf was another significant source, providing moonstone, amber, and onyx. These imports reflect the Romans' appreciation for colorful and exotic materials, which were integrated into their jewelry designs to signify wealth and status.
Metals and Craftsmanship
While the upper echelons of Roman society adorned themselves with jewelry made of fine gold and silver, the lower classes typically wore items fashioned from bronze or other less expensive metals.
This distinction in material usage highlights the social stratifications present in Roman times. Despite the differences in materials, the craftsmanship was sophisticated across all social strata.
Roman jewelers often employed mass-production techniques, such as molds and casting, which allowed them to produce jewelry more efficiently and make it available to a broader audience.
Popular Jewelry Pieces
The Roman elite typically wore solid gold necklaces, earrings, bracelets, and bullae (a type of amulet).
Some bracelets, particularly those styled as solid gold snake bracelets, were designed without clasps and were meant to be slipped over the wrist.
Others featured tiny gold screws or pins as fastenings.
Colorful Glass and Precious Stones
Roman aesthetic preferences led to an increased use of colorful glass alongside precious and semi-precious gemstones in their jewelry.
Skilled glassblowers were reputed to create pieces so convincingly that they could mimic real gemstones, an innovation that was both economically and artistically significant.
When real gems were used, favorites among Roman women included amethyst, emerald, and pearl, each chosen for its beauty and symbolic significance.
Pearls and Their Significance
Until the end of the Republic, pearls were a luxury reserved for the most affluent, due to their rarity and cost. They were often fashioned into earrings known as crotalaria (rattles), which were made from clusters of large pearl beads.
This use of pearls exemplified the height of luxury in Roman jewelry, representing both opulence and artistic expression.
The diversity of materials and the advanced techniques used in Roman jewelry-making not only highlight the Romans' skills and resources but also provide insight into the cultural and social dynamics of the period.
The blending of utility, beauty, and social symbolism in Roman jewelry offers a vivid glimpse into the past, illustrating how adornments were much more than mere decorations; they were integral to identity and social hierarchy in ancient Rome.
Sources and Influences of Roman Jewelry
Roman jewelry, an emblem of both wealth and artistic expression, has been extensively documented through various sources, ranging from archaeological finds to historical writings.
These sources provide a deep insight into the cultural significance and the evolving styles of Roman adornments.
Archaeological and Literary Sources
The primary knowledge about Roman jewelry comes from both excavated artifacts and contemporary accounts. Notable sites like Herculaneum and Pompeii are crucial for understanding the jewelry preferences of the first century.
The House of Menander in Pompeii, for example, is particularly informative, offering a unique glimpse into the personal jewelry collection of a wealthy Roman woman.
Additional material has been recorded from areas like Peiraeus, South Russia, and Cyprus, further enriching our understanding of Roman jewelry practices. In literature, references to jewelry are often found in the works of male satirists who criticized the extravagant spending of women in this area.
Prominent authors like Pliny cautioned that the importation of luxurious jewels from the East was threatening the Roman economy. Yet, despite these warnings, the Romans held a strong belief that Britain would become a reliable source of pearls, a gem they greatly valued.
Cultural Comparisons
Roman jewelry is known for its vivid colors and elaborate designs, a preference that starkly contrasts with the Greek focus on refined metalwork.
Although Roman designs initially bore similarities to Greek, Etruscan, and Egyptian jewelry, they became distinctly opulent and elaborate as Rome expanded and absorbed new cultures.
This incorporation of various styles reflects the empire’s broad geographical reach and its encounters with different civilizations.
Influence and Legacy
The influence of Roman jewelry did not end with the fall of Rome; it extended into the Byzantine era, particularly evident as Constantinople rose as the empire's new center.
Byzantine styles, while often classified under the Middle Ages, retain many cultural characteristics of their Roman predecessors, bridging ancient and medieval art forms.
Despite the rarity of jewelry finds relative to the size of the Roman Empire, the surviving pieces are still appreciated for their beauty and craftsmanship today. They not only adorn modern wearers but also serve as historical artifacts that offer a tangible connection to the past.
The legacy of Roman jewelry is thus a testament to the empire’s vast influence on art and culture, an influence that continues to be felt across centuries, showcasing the enduring appeal and significance of Roman aesthetic principles in the world of adornment.
Cover photo: Roman Solid Gold Medallion Bracelet - Source: The MET Museum via Wikimedia Commons
