Van Cleef & Arpels – A Story Of Excellence And Perfection
For over a century, the creations of the French jewelry brand Van Cleef & Arpels have symbolized the union of an unparalleled sense of style with a remarkable level of technical skill and craftsmanship.
Some of the most well-known and distinguished women in history are deeply intertwined with Van Cleef & Arpels' storied heritage.
Style icons and royalty, including Grace Kelly, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Diana, Princess of Wales, Ava Gardner, Farah Pahlavi, Eva Perón, Elizabeth Taylor, the Duchess of Windsor, Queen Nazli of Egypt, Queen Camilla, Gwyneth Paltrow, and Reese Witherspoon, have all adorned themselves with Van Cleef & Arpels pieces, which often feature motifs such as flowers, animals, and fairies.
Prominent tennis players, including Aryna Sabalenka, Elina Svitolina, and Grigor Dimitrov, have also been spotted wearing Van Cleef & Arpels fine jewelry.
Entering the world of Van Cleef & Arpels feels like embarking on an exciting treasure hunt, from Empress Farah’s crown and the secrets of the Iranian treasury to Queen Marie Amelie's missing emeralds, and the blood-red rubies of Burmese rulers.
Van Cleef & Arpels – The Beginning
Alfred Van Cleef, the son of a diamond merchant and lapidary craftsman, married Estelle Arpels, the daughter of a gem dealer, in 1895. They shared similar values: a love for rare stones, a spirit of inventiveness, and a strong sense of family.
This partnership marked the beginning of their remarkable future, leading to the establishment of a Maison at 22 Place Vendôme in 1906, which bore both their names: Van Cleef & Arpels. The store still operates today at this prestigious address.
Van Cleef & Arpels opened boutiques in luxury vacation spots such as Deauville, Vichy, Le Touquet, Nice, and Monte Carlo.
In 1926, Renée Puissant, the daughter of Alfred and Estelle, became the company's creative director. For the next 20 years, she worked closely with draftsman René Sim Lacaze.
Van Cleef & Arpels also became the first French jeweler to open stores in China and Japan.
In 1999, the company was acquired by Compagnie Financière Richemont S.A.
The Boutiques
There are 155 Van Cleef & Arpels stores worldwide. Products are available in independent retailers, boutiques within major department stores, and standalone locations. Along with its main store at Place Vendôme, the firm has standalone boutiques in Geneva, Zürich, Vienna, Munich, London, Milan, Shanghai, and Paris, according to Wikipedia.
In addition to the flagship store in New York City, redesigned in 2013, standalone boutiques are also located in cities such as Boston, Dallas, Las Vegas, Manhasset, Naples, Palm Beach, San Francisco, and Bal Harbour.
In 2016, Van Cleef & Arpels expanded into Australia. In 2022, they opened a store on Queen Street in Auckland, New Zealand, as part of their ongoing expansion in Oceania.
They also operate autonomous boutiques in Asia, South America, and the Middle East.
The Five Ladies
The Maison’s exquisite jewelry quickly gained attention, especially due to its proximity to the upscale Hotel Ritz, attracting wealthy clients from business magnates to European aristocrats.
These ladies left a lasting legacy in the world of jewelry, with some of their most iconic styles being replicated by Van Cleef & Arpels over the years.
From the glamour of the 1920s to the Jet Set era of the early 1970s, leading women from across the globe were captivated by the Maison’s creations.
Here are five women who helped shape the world of high jewelry through Van Cleef & Arpels.
Empress Farah Pahlavi of Iran
For millennia, only male rulers had been crowned in Iran. However, on October 26, 1967, in accordance with the White Revolution's call for women's emancipation, Mohammad Reza Pahlavi crowned Farah Pahlavi as Iran’s first Empress.
There was a problem, though—no suitable crown existed, as no empress had been crowned for centuries.
Van Cleef & Arpels was honored with the commission to create the new crown in 1966 after the Iranian government selected the Maison's design from 50 proposals. This would be one of the most prestigious commissions in the Maison's history.
Another issue arose—the crown and coronation jewelry had to be crafted using stones from the Imperial Treasury, and none of the treasures could leave Iran.
Ultimately, the Maison presented Empress Farah with a white gold crown set with two spinels, 38 emeralds, 34 rubies, 105 pearls, 1,469 diamonds, and a 150-carat hexagonal emerald as its centerpiece.
Some of the most well-known and distinguished women in history are deeply intertwined with Van Cleef & Arpels' storied heritage.
Style icons and royalty, including Grace Kelly, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Diana, Princess of Wales, Ava Gardner, Farah Pahlavi, Eva Perón, Elizabeth Taylor, the Duchess of Windsor, Queen Nazli of Egypt, Queen Camilla, Gwyneth Paltrow, and Reese Witherspoon, have all adorned themselves with Van Cleef & Arpels pieces, which often feature motifs such as flowers, animals, and fairies.
Prominent tennis players, including Aryna Sabalenka, Elina Svitolina, and Grigor Dimitrov, have also been spotted wearing Van Cleef & Arpels fine jewelry.
Entering the world of Van Cleef & Arpels feels like embarking on an exciting treasure hunt, from Empress Farah’s crown and the secrets of the Iranian treasury to Queen Marie Amelie's missing emeralds, and the blood-red rubies of Burmese rulers.
Van Cleef & Arpels – The Beginning
Alfred Van Cleef, the son of a diamond merchant and lapidary craftsman, married Estelle Arpels, the daughter of a gem dealer, in 1895. They shared similar values: a love for rare stones, a spirit of inventiveness, and a strong sense of family.
This partnership marked the beginning of their remarkable future, leading to the establishment of a Maison at 22 Place Vendôme in 1906, which bore both their names: Van Cleef & Arpels. The store still operates today at this prestigious address.
Van Cleef & Arpels opened boutiques in luxury vacation spots such as Deauville, Vichy, Le Touquet, Nice, and Monte Carlo.
In 1926, Renée Puissant, the daughter of Alfred and Estelle, became the company's creative director. For the next 20 years, she worked closely with draftsman René Sim Lacaze.
Van Cleef & Arpels also became the first French jeweler to open stores in China and Japan.
In 1999, the company was acquired by Compagnie Financière Richemont S.A.
The Boutiques
There are 155 Van Cleef & Arpels stores worldwide. Products are available in independent retailers, boutiques within major department stores, and standalone locations. Along with its main store at Place Vendôme, the firm has standalone boutiques in Geneva, Zürich, Vienna, Munich, London, Milan, Shanghai, and Paris, according to Wikipedia.
In addition to the flagship store in New York City, redesigned in 2013, standalone boutiques are also located in cities such as Boston, Dallas, Las Vegas, Manhasset, Naples, Palm Beach, San Francisco, and Bal Harbour.
In 2016, Van Cleef & Arpels expanded into Australia. In 2022, they opened a store on Queen Street in Auckland, New Zealand, as part of their ongoing expansion in Oceania.
They also operate autonomous boutiques in Asia, South America, and the Middle East.
The Five Ladies
The Maison’s exquisite jewelry quickly gained attention, especially due to its proximity to the upscale Hotel Ritz, attracting wealthy clients from business magnates to European aristocrats.
These ladies left a lasting legacy in the world of jewelry, with some of their most iconic styles being replicated by Van Cleef & Arpels over the years.
From the glamour of the 1920s to the Jet Set era of the early 1970s, leading women from across the globe were captivated by the Maison’s creations.
Here are five women who helped shape the world of high jewelry through Van Cleef & Arpels.
Empress Farah Pahlavi of Iran
For millennia, only male rulers had been crowned in Iran. However, on October 26, 1967, in accordance with the White Revolution's call for women's emancipation, Mohammad Reza Pahlavi crowned Farah Pahlavi as Iran’s first Empress.
There was a problem, though—no suitable crown existed, as no empress had been crowned for centuries.
Van Cleef & Arpels was honored with the commission to create the new crown in 1966 after the Iranian government selected the Maison's design from 50 proposals. This would be one of the most prestigious commissions in the Maison's history.
Another issue arose—the crown and coronation jewelry had to be crafted using stones from the Imperial Treasury, and none of the treasures could leave Iran.
Ultimately, the Maison presented Empress Farah with a white gold crown set with two spinels, 38 emeralds, 34 rubies, 105 pearls, 1,469 diamonds, and a 150-carat hexagonal emerald as its centerpiece.
Elizabeth Taylor
The 1971 Barquerolles necklace is modeled after Venetian door knockers and features a lion's head with a diamond-set mane. This glittering piece, set in yellow gold, can be worn as a brooch or as two bracelets.
Elizabeth Taylor received it from Richard Burton as a gift, and she wrote about her initial reaction: "I always know when something is right because my heart goes 'click,' and my heart was clicking like a castanet when I saw this set."
Princess Faiza of Egypt
Princess Faiza of Egypt, considered the most beautiful of King Farouk's five sisters, was born on November 8, 1923, in Abdine Palace.
Vibrant, witty, and rebellious, Princess Faiza was known for her stunning jewelry and fashion choices, with a preference for Parisian haute couture and fine jewelry. Naturally, she gravitated towards Van Cleef & Arpels.
One of her most impressive pieces was a platinum Art Deco collaret adorned with diamonds of various sizes and shapes, as well as ten drop-shaped Colombian emeralds totaling 165 carats.
The necklace was purchased for her in 1947 by a representative of the Egyptian court in France after it was initially designed in 1929 and modified in 1937. Princess Faiza kept this gem when she and her husband fled Egypt in 1952, and she brought it with her to California after her divorce, where her mother, Queen Nazli, and sister, Princess Fathia, were residing, according to Prestige magazine.
Wallis Simpson
American socialite Wallis Simpson, an important Van Cleef & Arpels client known for her refined taste, preferred simple, elegant couture dresses that served as the perfect backdrop for her spectacular jewelry.
Over the years, her husband, the Duke of Windsor (formerly King Edward VIII), purchased and customized several pieces from the Maison as tokens of his love.
Among these were a diamond and ruby bracelet with the inscription "Hold tight 27.III.36" and a two-feather clip featuring Mystery Set rubies and diamonds, which was a Christmas gift in 1936.
The Duke also commissioned Van Cleef & Arpels to create the Cravate necklace, set with rubies and diamonds, for Wallis' 40th birthday in 1936. The clasp was engraved with "My Wallis from her David, 19.VI.1936."
René Sim Lacaze, a jewelry designer at Van Cleef & Arpels, later enhanced the necklace with additional stones. The new platinum setting featured rows of interlaced rubies and diamonds, finishing in a stunning waterfall of more rubies.
Princess Grace of Monaco
After marrying Prince Rainier III in 1956, American actress Grace Kelly became Princess of Monaco. To mark their union, Prince Rainier met with Louis Arpels at the Van Cleef & Arpels boutique in New York, where Arpels convinced him that his fiancée’s beauty was deserving of exquisite pearls.
The chosen set included a diamond blossom ring with a pearl, a three-strand pearl bracelet with diamond blossom motifs, a three-strand pearl necklace with diamond swirl patterns, and pearl earrings with a swirl of baguette and marquise-cut diamonds.
A few months later, the Principality of Monaco designated Van Cleef & Arpels as its Patented Supplier. Princess Grace often wore this royal pearl pendant throughout her life.
Grace, who had already been a client of the Maison before her engagement, continued adding high jewelry pieces, including bracelets, tiaras, and clips. She also enjoyed wearing more casual creations, like the charming animal clips from the La Boutique line and the iconic Alhambra necklaces, which she collected in various precious materials like lapis lazuli, coral, and malachite.
The Mystery Setting
On December 2, 1933, Van Cleef & Arpels was granted French Patent No. 764,966 for a proprietary gem-setting technique known as Serti Mysterieux, or "Mystery Setting," where the prongs are invisible.
Gold rails less than two-tenths of a millimeter thick hold each stone in place. Only a few pieces are made annually using this technique, which can take up to 300 hours of labor per piece.
Although difficult to replicate with the same precision, Van Cleef & Arpels' Mystery Setting became a signature of the Maison, inspiring jewelers worldwide.
While neither Chaumet nor Cartier utilized the technique as extensively, Chaumet received an English patent for a similar method in 1904 and 1933, respectively.
The Excellence of the Maison
Maintaining quality at Van Cleef & Arpels begins with the careful selection of materials. The House's skilled gemologists meticulously select each stone used in jewelry, high jewelry, and timepieces, as noted on vancleefarpels.com.
In line with their heritage of excellence, Van Cleef & Arpels follows a two-tiered diamond selection process, ensuring that every pre-selected stone meets the globally accepted 4Cs of diamond quality.
Van Cleef & Arpels’ gemologists not only evaluate diamonds scientifically but also focus on the beauty and character of each stone—the unique attributes that distinguish one gem from another—ensuring that the Maison’s exacting standards and personal preferences are upheld.
As a result, Van Cleef & Arpels is one of the few Maisons that offers diamonds of such exceptional quality for both pavé and center stones.
Each stone in the Maison's creations reflects Van Cleef & Arpels' dedication to selecting the most extraordinary gems. Only stones that evoke a lasting emotional response are chosen for their artisans to work with, whether they are precious or ornamental.
The 1971 Barquerolles necklace is modeled after Venetian door knockers and features a lion's head with a diamond-set mane. This glittering piece, set in yellow gold, can be worn as a brooch or as two bracelets.
Elizabeth Taylor received it from Richard Burton as a gift, and she wrote about her initial reaction: "I always know when something is right because my heart goes 'click,' and my heart was clicking like a castanet when I saw this set."
Princess Faiza of Egypt
Princess Faiza of Egypt, considered the most beautiful of King Farouk's five sisters, was born on November 8, 1923, in Abdine Palace.
Vibrant, witty, and rebellious, Princess Faiza was known for her stunning jewelry and fashion choices, with a preference for Parisian haute couture and fine jewelry. Naturally, she gravitated towards Van Cleef & Arpels.
One of her most impressive pieces was a platinum Art Deco collaret adorned with diamonds of various sizes and shapes, as well as ten drop-shaped Colombian emeralds totaling 165 carats.
The necklace was purchased for her in 1947 by a representative of the Egyptian court in France after it was initially designed in 1929 and modified in 1937. Princess Faiza kept this gem when she and her husband fled Egypt in 1952, and she brought it with her to California after her divorce, where her mother, Queen Nazli, and sister, Princess Fathia, were residing, according to Prestige magazine.
Wallis Simpson
American socialite Wallis Simpson, an important Van Cleef & Arpels client known for her refined taste, preferred simple, elegant couture dresses that served as the perfect backdrop for her spectacular jewelry.
Over the years, her husband, the Duke of Windsor (formerly King Edward VIII), purchased and customized several pieces from the Maison as tokens of his love.
Among these were a diamond and ruby bracelet with the inscription "Hold tight 27.III.36" and a two-feather clip featuring Mystery Set rubies and diamonds, which was a Christmas gift in 1936.
The Duke also commissioned Van Cleef & Arpels to create the Cravate necklace, set with rubies and diamonds, for Wallis' 40th birthday in 1936. The clasp was engraved with "My Wallis from her David, 19.VI.1936."
René Sim Lacaze, a jewelry designer at Van Cleef & Arpels, later enhanced the necklace with additional stones. The new platinum setting featured rows of interlaced rubies and diamonds, finishing in a stunning waterfall of more rubies.
Princess Grace of Monaco
After marrying Prince Rainier III in 1956, American actress Grace Kelly became Princess of Monaco. To mark their union, Prince Rainier met with Louis Arpels at the Van Cleef & Arpels boutique in New York, where Arpels convinced him that his fiancée’s beauty was deserving of exquisite pearls.
The chosen set included a diamond blossom ring with a pearl, a three-strand pearl bracelet with diamond blossom motifs, a three-strand pearl necklace with diamond swirl patterns, and pearl earrings with a swirl of baguette and marquise-cut diamonds.
A few months later, the Principality of Monaco designated Van Cleef & Arpels as its Patented Supplier. Princess Grace often wore this royal pearl pendant throughout her life.
Grace, who had already been a client of the Maison before her engagement, continued adding high jewelry pieces, including bracelets, tiaras, and clips. She also enjoyed wearing more casual creations, like the charming animal clips from the La Boutique line and the iconic Alhambra necklaces, which she collected in various precious materials like lapis lazuli, coral, and malachite.
The Mystery Setting
On December 2, 1933, Van Cleef & Arpels was granted French Patent No. 764,966 for a proprietary gem-setting technique known as Serti Mysterieux, or "Mystery Setting," where the prongs are invisible.
Gold rails less than two-tenths of a millimeter thick hold each stone in place. Only a few pieces are made annually using this technique, which can take up to 300 hours of labor per piece.
Although difficult to replicate with the same precision, Van Cleef & Arpels' Mystery Setting became a signature of the Maison, inspiring jewelers worldwide.
While neither Chaumet nor Cartier utilized the technique as extensively, Chaumet received an English patent for a similar method in 1904 and 1933, respectively.
The Excellence of the Maison
Maintaining quality at Van Cleef & Arpels begins with the careful selection of materials. The House's skilled gemologists meticulously select each stone used in jewelry, high jewelry, and timepieces, as noted on vancleefarpels.com.
In line with their heritage of excellence, Van Cleef & Arpels follows a two-tiered diamond selection process, ensuring that every pre-selected stone meets the globally accepted 4Cs of diamond quality.
Van Cleef & Arpels’ gemologists not only evaluate diamonds scientifically but also focus on the beauty and character of each stone—the unique attributes that distinguish one gem from another—ensuring that the Maison’s exacting standards and personal preferences are upheld.
As a result, Van Cleef & Arpels is one of the few Maisons that offers diamonds of such exceptional quality for both pavé and center stones.
Each stone in the Maison's creations reflects Van Cleef & Arpels' dedication to selecting the most extraordinary gems. Only stones that evoke a lasting emotional response are chosen for their artisans to work with, whether they are precious or ornamental.
