Ostertag

The Rarity of Ostertag Creations

Arnold Ostertag's jewelry and objets d’art are among the rarest treasures in the world of fine jewelry. Due to the relatively short lifespan of Maison Ostertag and the meticulous craftsmanship behind each piece, surviving examples of his work are highly sought after by collectors and connoisseurs. These exquisite creations, embodying the elegance of the Art Deco era, stand as enduring testaments to Ostertag's exceptional artistry and vision.

Early Life and International Influence

Melchior Siegfried Arnold Ostertag (1883–1940), known simply as Arnold Ostertag, was a visionary jeweler whose influence during the 1920s and 1930s left an indelible mark on French fine jewelry. Born in Lucerne, Switzerland, as the youngest of three children, Ostertag embarked on a journey that took him across the USA, Europe, and India before he finally settled in Paris at the beginning of the 1920s.

Establishing Maison Ostertag in Paris

In 1922, he opened his eponymous boutique at 16 Place Vendôme, the epicenter of French luxury. The following year, he registered his trademark and began to gain rapid success, bolstered by frequent advertisements in popular magazines like Femina and Vogue. Ostertag quickly established a reputation for crafting high-quality jewelry and objets d’art that captivated the elite clientele of Paris.

The Influence of India and the 'Tutti Frutti' Style

Influenced by his travels in India, Ostertag's work often featured richly colored gemstones, particularly in the 'Tutti Frutti' style that became synonymous with the Art Deco era. His creations showcased carved rubies, sapphires, and emeralds set against sparkling diamonds in designs inspired by flora—stylized flowers, leaves, fruits, and berries. Alongside renowned houses like Cartier and Mauboussin, Ostertag produced some of the finest examples of this vibrant style during the 1920s and 1930s.

Beyond Jewelry: Luxurious Accessories and Objects

Beyond jewelry, Ostertag offered an extensive range of luxurious accessories, including vanity cases, cigarette cases, and compacts, as well as decorative boxes and other objets d’art. He utilized decorative hardstones such as agate, lapis lazuli, and jade, embellishing them with ruby and sapphire cabochons and diamond accents, transforming everyday items into miniature jeweled masterpieces.

Watches and Mystery Clocks

Ostertag's beautifully designed watches were crafted in gold and adorned with precious gems, featuring movements supplied by esteemed watchmakers like Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, and Baume et Mercier. He also collaborated with the renowned firm Verger Frères for clocks, including the enigmatic 'Mystery Clocks' that both Ostertag and Cartier sold—Georges Verger being one of the few who knew their secrets. These collaborations with discreet yet exceptional workshops, including Rubel Frères, contributed to the unparalleled quality of Ostertag's creations.

Exhibitions and Prestigious Recognition

In 1929, Ostertag exhibited his jewelry and objets d’art at the Musée Galliera alongside prestigious houses like Boucheron, Fouquet, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Mauboussin. A special supplement in Le Figaro illustrated a selection of the showcased jewels, featuring a stunning Tutti Frutti bracelet and brooch by Ostertag, as well as a necklace centered with an exceptional round faceted sapphire and striking Art Deco clips.

Notable Admirers and Iconic Designs

The allure of Ostertag's designs attracted notable admirers. In 1937, opera singer and film star Grace Moore wore a magnificent diamond necklace by Ostertag for her debut concert at Carnegie Hall. The necklace featured a baguette diamond reportedly cut from the legendary Cullinan diamond, suspending an unusual kite-shaped diamond within a geometric surround, all linked by a necklace of round and baguette diamonds.

Personal Life and the End of an Era

Arnold married his American wife Verna in Paris in August 1939; he was 56, and she was 25. They had met in Cannes two years prior, where Arnold had a second boutique. Just over a month after their wedding, World War II was declared. Verna returned to America immediately, and Arnold followed in November, leaving the management of his company to a trusted employee, Mr. Foa. Tragically, Arnold never returned to Paris; he passed away in April 1940, less than six months after arriving in the United States, leaving his entire estate to his wife. Back in France, Paris was under occupation, and business had come to a standstill. The Ostertag firm formally closed its doors in 1941.

The Legacy of Maison Ostertag

Despite its relatively brief existence, Maison Ostertag made a significant contribution to the history of French jewelry during the 1920s and 1930s. The hallmark of Ostertag remains a symbol of style and quality, cherished by collectors and connoisseurs alike.

DSF Antique Jewelry and the Ostertag Legacy

Today, the legacy of Arnold Ostertag lives on through the exquisite pieces that have survived the passage of time. DSF Antique Jewelry is proud to have a couple of remarkable pieces by Ostertag in their collection, exemplifying the exceptional craftsmanship and artistic vision that defined his work. This treasured item not only showcases the intricate design and vibrant use of gemstones characteristic of Ostertag but also serves as a tangible connection to the golden era of Art Deco jewelry. Collectors and enthusiasts have the rare opportunity to appreciate and acquire a piece of history through DSF Antique Jewelry's curated selection.

Enduring Influence

Ostertag's contributions continue to inspire and influence modern jewelry design. His ability to blend cultural influences with innovative techniques set a standard for excellence that endures to this day. The pieces that remain are not just jewelry but are considered works of art, each telling a story of a bygone era marked by elegance and creativity.

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