The Fascinating Story of Harry Winston: The King of Diamonds
Harry Winston, celebrated worldwide as the "King of Diamonds," was a visionary who transformed rough diamonds into exquisite masterpieces, raising jewelry to an art form.
Winston’s unique approach to jewelry was unlike any other jeweler of his time; he prioritized the diamond itself, allowing its natural beauty to guide his designs rather than merely surrounding it with precious metals.
This groundbreaking perspective led Winston to become one of the 20th century’s most revered jewelers and an eminent diamond collector, reshaping the standards of elegance and luxury in fine jewelry.
Harry Winston's jewelry embodies creativity, rarity, and quality of unparalleled beauty, the gemstones taking pride of place, transforming each piece of jewelry into an exquisite work of art.
Winston's innovative design philosophy—where gemstones dictate the design—helped revolutionize jewelry creation in the 20th century and remains the hallmark of the brand today.
Harry Winston's jewelry - Credit: "Harry Winston: the ultimate jeweler" by Krashes, Laurence S
The Winston Cluster & An Innovative Approach to Diamonds
Winston held a firm belief that jewelry design should stem from the inherent beauty of the diamond, rather than imposing a style upon it. This philosophy gave rise to his signature Winston Cluster, an arrangement he pioneered in the 1940s.
The Cluster style involved placing diamonds in varying shapes and setting them at precise angles across different levels to capture the maximum amount of light, depth, and volume.
This revolutionary design set a new standard in jewelry aesthetics, combining technical precision with an artful celebration of the diamond’s brilliance.
The Cluster style remains a hallmark of the Harry Winston brand to this day, embodying Winston’s legacy of diamond-centric design.
Winston's Iconic Jewelry at the Oscars
In 1946, Harry Winston acquired a historic diamond with origins dating back to Eleanor of Aquitaine. This acquisition marked a high point in his career and highlighted his talent for sourcing rare and remarkable gemstones.
The following year, his creations debuted at the Academy Awards when Katharine Hepburn wore the iconic “Inquisition Necklace,” featuring 15 Colombian emeralds and 336 diamonds. The necklace’s design was a breathtaking blend of artistry and opulence, with a 45-carat emerald as the centerpiece.
Winston’s early Hollywood collaborations ignited a trend, and he quickly became a favorite among Hollywood’s elite, establishing his jewelry as an enduring symbol of red-carpet glamour.
The Court of Jewels and the Hope Diamond
In 1949, Winston embarked on an extraordinary journey with his traveling exhibition, The Court of Jewels. He gathered his most prized gemstones, including the famed blue Hope Diamond, which he acquired from Lord Henry Thomas Hope's estate for $1.5 million.
The Court of Jewels toured across the United States for four years, drawing large crowds and raising funds for various charitable causes. By donating the proceeds, Winston underscored his commitment to philanthropy and his desire to share the beauty of these rare stones with the public.
In 1958, Winston made a historic decision to donate the Hope Diamond to the Smithsonian Institution, where it continues to captivate millions of visitors annually.
The Hope Diamond is one of the most famous diamonds in the world. Surrounded by mystery and legends, it has a storied past that spans centuries, crossing continents and passing through the hands of royalty, bankers, and gem collectors.
Believed to have been mined in India, the diamond likely originated from the Kollur Mine in the Golconda region. It was initially much larger, known as the Tavernier Blue, a 115-carat diamond purchased by French gem merchant Jean-Baptiste Tavernier in the 17th century.
The diamond was sold to King Louis XIV of France in 1668 and became part of the French Crown Jewels, recut to 67 carats and renamed the French Blue. During the French Revolution in 1792, the diamond was stolen and disappeared for several decades.
It reemerged in London in the early 19th century and was purchased by Henry Philip Hope, a wealthy banker, giving the gem its current name. The diamond changed hands several times in the 19th and 20th centuries.
In 1949, American jeweler Harry Winston purchased the Hope Diamond and displayed it on tours to raise funds for charitable causes. Nine years later, he donated it to the Smithsonian Institution, ensuring its place as one of the most visited museum artifacts in the world.
Early Life and a Natural Talent for Gemstones
Born on March 1, 1896, in Manhattan to Ukrainian Jewish immigrant parents, Winston was introduced to the world of jewelry at an early age through his father’s repair shop. From a young age, he demonstrated an innate ability to recognize the potential in gemstones.
According to a well-known story, at age 12, Winston recognized the value of a two-carat emerald in a pawn shop, purchasing it for 25 cents and selling it the next day for $800. This early episode showcased his exceptional eye for stones and foreshadowed the career that would follow.
Harry’s passion for diamonds only intensified as he grew older. His father warned him about the consuming nature of his obsession, but nothing could deter Winston’s pursuit of excellence in the diamond world.
In 1914, he returned to New York, opened a jewelry repair shop, and within two years, used $2,000 in savings to establish the Premier Diamond Company.
Winston’s keen understanding of gemstones and his determination to succeed allowed him to flourish in the competitive New York diamond market, although he faced early setbacks, including a significant financial loss due to an employee’s theft.
A New Approach to the Diamond Market
Undeterred by these challenges, Winston developed an innovative business strategy. He purchased out-of-fashion jewelry at estate sales and refurbished these pieces with a modern twist, selling them for significantly higher prices.
This approach allowed him to amass valuable collections, including the notable acquisitions of Rebecca Darlington Stoddard’s collection in 1925 and Arabella Huntington’s collection in 1926.
Winston’s skill in reimagining these historic pieces set him apart and made his jewelry highly coveted by the American elite.
Hollywood Fame and Marilyn Monroe’s Endorsement
Harry Winston’s influence reached new heights in 1944 when he lent jewelry to actress Jennifer Jones for the Oscars, sparking a trend of Hollywood stars borrowing fine jewelry for red-carpet events. This practice not only elevated the prestige of the events but also established Winston as the jeweler of choice for Hollywood's elite.
In 1947, Katharine Hepburn wore Winston's iconic Inquisition Necklace at a high-profile event, showcasing the jeweler’s ability to combine historical significance with modern glamour. The necklace, featuring 15 Colombian emeralds and 336 diamonds, became a symbol of opulence and artistry, further cementing Winston’s reputation.
This tradition continued with numerous Hollywood stars adorning themselves with Harry Winston creations at major events, creating memorable moments that linked his name to the pinnacle of elegance and celebrity culture. Stars like Elizabeth Taylor, Audrey Hepburn, and Natalie Wood also wore Winston’s jewels, amplifying his influence in the world of luxury.
Winston’s jewelry became synonymous with luxury and glamour, a reputation that only grew after Marilyn Monroe famously referenced him in the song “Diamonds Are a Girl’s Best Friend” from the film Gentlemen Prefer Blondes (1953). Monroe’s mention of Winston immortalized his name, solidifying his status as a cultural icon.
Legendary Acquisitions: The Jonker, Vargas, and Lesotho Diamonds
Throughout his career, Harry Winston made landmark acquisitions that furthered his reputation as a fearless and skilled diamond trader. In 1935, he bought the 726-carat Jonker diamond for $700,000, mailing it from Johannesburg to New York for a mere 64 cents. His cutting of the Jonker diamond yielded significant returns, with the largest resulting gem alone weighing 125 carats.
In 1938, Winston pursued the massive 726-carat Vargas diamond in Brazil, and in the 1960s, he obtained the 970-carat Sierra Leone diamond, from which he cut 17 separate stones. These high-profile acquisitions underscored Winston’s determination to seek out the world’s most extraordinary diamonds.
One of Winston’s most famous sales involved the 69-carat pear-shaped diamond known as the Taylor-Burton Diamond. Purchased by Richard Burton for Elizabeth Taylor, the diamond became a symbol of Hollywood glamour and a testament to Winston’s ability to source truly spectacular gems.
Another notable acquisition was the 601-carat Lesotho diamond, which he cut live on television, transforming it into 18 individual stones, including a 40-carat gem that would become Jacqueline Kennedy’s engagement ring from Aristotle Onassis.
The Smithsonian Legacy and Philanthropy
By 1952, Life magazine ranked Winston as the world’s second-largest collector of historic jewelry, trailing only the British royal family. Winston’s considerable influence in the diamond industry even rivaled that of De Beers.
His devotion to sharing his collection with the world led to the 1949 establishment of The Jewelry Court, a traveling exhibit showcasing gems such as the Hope Diamond.
Winston’s philanthropic efforts included significant donations to the Smithsonian Institution, including the Hope Diamond in 1958, the Portuguese Diamond in 1962, and the Oppenheimer Stone in 1963. His contributions are commemorated with a gallery in his name at the Smithsonian, ensuring that his legacy endures.
"Hope Diamond" - Credit: "Harry Winston: the ultimate jeweler" by Krashes, Laurence S
In the early 1960s, the company's annual revenue reached $50 million. Alongside bespoke, high-end jewelry, Harry Winston also produced catalog jewelry featuring industrial diamonds, demonstrating the brand's versatility and broad appeal.
Napoleon Necklace - Credit: "Harry Winston: the ultimate jeweler" by Krashes, Laurence S
Briolette - Credit: "Harry Winston: the ultimate jeweler" by Krashes, Laurence S
The Obsession for Diamonds
When Harry Winston parted with one of his prized large gems, it wasn’t merely a business transaction—it was an emotional experience that left him with a profound sense of loss. This sentiment was captured by Life magazine, which described Winston as a "reverent connoisseur with so deep a love for fine stones that the sale of a top-quality diamond often suffuses him with a gentle melancholy for days."
One memorable moment occurred when Mrs. Winston tried on a stunning pair of earrings in front of her husband. With a twinkle in his eye, he confessed that he hated seeing a woman take any of his diamonds. Laughing, Mrs. Winston quipped, "Oh Harry! Always complaining about selling your babies!"
As recounted in "The Ultimate Jeweler", Harry Winston often grappled with whether he was more a merchant or a collector at heart. This was exemplified when the Maharaja of Baroda visited to purchase jewelry. In just a short time, Winston sold him several million dollars’ worth of jewels. Yet, unlike most successful businessmen, he didn’t revel in the achievement.
"When Harry came home that evening, I thought he was ill," recalled his wife, Edna Winston. "He seemed so unhappy and depressed. It turned out that he had parted with some of his favorite pieces of jewelry."
Winston’s deep attachment to gems meant he would go to extraordinary lengths to obtain the stones he desired. During a summer trip to Paris, he came across a particularly beautiful diamond that immediately captured his fancy. Intent on buying it, he was persuaded by Edna to first spend a relaxing weekend in Deauville.
By the time they returned, the diamond had been sold to someone else. Undeterred, Winston eventually found the same gem in New York six months later and purchased it without hesitation—even though the price had risen by sixty thousand dollars.
Van Buren Diamond - Credit: "Harry Winston: the ultimate jeweler" by Krashes, Laurence S
Harry Winston Watches
In 1989, the brand ventured into horology, launching a line of timepieces that upheld its reputation for excellence. Manufactured in Geneva, Switzerland—a hub of watchmaking expertise—Harry Winston watches embody the highest standards of precision, innovation, and artistry.
Being a pioneer in the field, the brand utilizes its own alloys: Zalium (a corrosion-resistant zirconium-based alloy) and Winstonium (a special platinum containing more rhodium for a brighter finish).
Key Collections
- Avenue Collection: Inspired by the architectural beauty of New York City, particularly the brand's Fifth Avenue flagship store. Avenue watches are elegant and feminine, often adorned with diamonds and featuring Art Deco-inspired designs.
- Ocean Collection: Known for its sporty yet sophisticated appeal, the Ocean Collection offers robust timepieces featuring complications like retrograde indicators, chronographs, and tourbillons. These watches often boast water resistance and technical prowess.
- Midnight Collection: The Midnight series exudes classic elegance with refined dials and minimalist designs. This collection is ideal for those seeking timeless sophistication with a contemporary edge.
- Project Z: A testament to Harry Winston’s commitment to innovation, Project Z showcases watches made from Zalium®, a lightweight and corrosion-resistant alloy unique to the brand. These timepieces are both futuristic and technically advanced.
- Histoire de Tourbillon: This exclusive series celebrates the mastery of complex movements, showcasing bold and intricate designs with multi-axis tourbillons and high-end complications.
Why Choose a Harry Winston Watch?
Owning a Harry Winston watch is not just about telling time; it's about choosing luxury and innovation.
Harry Winston watches feature unique design elements tied to the house’s codes, such as its signature blue color—a nod to the legendary Hope Diamond—and the three arches adorning most collections, referencing the brand’s Fifth Avenue flagship salon.
These models boast handcrafted, timeless dials that juxtapose bold chromatic palettes with opaque and translucent glass fragments, creating distinctive geometric patterns accented with diamonds.
Harry Winston watches continue to captivate royalty, heads of state, and celebrities, blending the finest traditions of Swiss craftsmanship with the brand’s American legacy.
Briefly, Harry Winston watches:
- Serve as heirloom-quality pieces, blending beauty and function.
- Showcase rare artistry, appealing to connoisseurs of both jewelry and horology.
- Represent a perfect balance of traditional craftsmanship and modern design.
Winston’s Lasting Impact on the World of Diamonds
Harry Winston passed away at 82 in December 1978, but his legacy lives on through the enduring values of his company, which continues to prioritize diamonds as the ultimate expression of beauty and elegance.
Bibliography
- "Harry Winston: the ultimate jeweler" by Krashes, Laurence S
- Historia
- Mațcan-Lîsenco, Inga. "A Retrospective of Harry Winston's Life and Legacy, the King of Diamonds. Contemporary Influences."
