Tiffany & Co. - The Journey of an Iconic Jewelry House
Tiffany & Co. has evolved into the epitome of an American jeweler, boasting a global reputation for glamour and sophistication throughout its nearly 200-year history.
The brand quickly established itself as the go-to destination for women seeking striking, high-end jewelry. It was also the first American company to adopt the British Silver Standard, a hallmark of 92% pure metal, which was later embraced by the U.S. government.
Over the years, Tiffany & Co. has collaborated with several iconic designers, including Jean Schlumberger, Paloma Picasso, and Elsa Peretti. Despite being a luxury brand, Tiffany has successfully made its collections more accessible, notably with its famous Tiffany & Co. rings.
One element that has remained constant throughout Tiffany's history, even as the world has evolved, is the iconic Tiffany Blue Box. Both the color and the packaging are trademarked, making them among the most recognizable brand symbols globally.
Origins and Evolution of Tiffany & Co.
The Tiffany legacy began in 1837, when 25-year-old Charles Lewis Tiffany and his friend John B. Young opened a modest stationery and luxury goods store in New York City, funded by a $1,000 loan from Charles' father.
Initially named "Tiffany, Young and Ellis," the store at 259 Broadway in Lower Manhattan sold an assortment of stationery items.
Charles Lewis Tiffany - Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
In 1853, Charles Tiffany took sole control, narrowed the company’s focus to jewelry, and rebranded it as Tiffany & Company. This shift in direction made Tiffany’s a favorite shopping destination for fashionable women who sought clean, American-style jewels and watches that contrasted with the opulence of the Victorian era.
The brand’s growth was marked by its innovative and pioneering approach, which remains a cornerstone of its identity. Tiffany expanded its footprint globally by opening stores in prestigious cities around the world.
In the 1830s, the company distinguished itself by prominently displaying set prices, a practice that eliminated the need for haggling—a standard in retail at the time. Additionally, Tiffany only accepted cash payments, breaking with the prevalent norm of credit transactions.
Tiffany played a crucial role in establishing the sterling silver standard in the United States. In 1851, he adopted the British silver standard of 92.5% purity, which later became the U.S. Sterling Standard.
The brand’s early accolades include winning a grand prize for silverware and a gold medal for jewelry at the 1878 Paris Exposition.
That same year, Tiffany acquired the Tiffany Diamond, one of the world’s largest yellow diamonds. This magnificent gem, weighing 128.54 carats, has been worn by only four individuals, including Audrey Hepburn, who donned it while promoting Breakfast at Tiffany's.
Charles Lewis Tiffany served a distinguished clientele, including U.S. presidents such as Abraham Lincoln and John F. Kennedy, as well as prominent American families like the Vanderbilts and the Astors.
Following Charles Lewis Tiffany’s death in 1902, his son Louis Comfort Tiffany was appointed as the company’s first official design director.
The Artistic Vision of Louis Comfort Tiffany
Louis Comfort Tiffany was a pioneer in the world of stained glass and brought his innovative spirit to the realm of jewelry, significantly contributing to the Art Nouveau movement.
His work with iridescent glass, opals, and enamel transformed jewelry design, blending organic forms with radiant colors. This creative use of materials became a hallmark of his style, resulting in jewelry that shimmered with light and color. These signature elements played a vital role in elevating Tiffany & Co.’s reputation during the Art Nouveau era.
Louis Comfort Tiffany - Photo Credit: William Kurtz, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
In 1905, Tiffany relocated its flagship store to the corner of 37th Street and Fifth Avenue, where it remained for 35 years. In 1940, the company moved its flagship store to 727 Fifth Avenue, a building designed by Cross & Cross that continues to serve as Tiffany’s iconic location.
The mid-20th century brought further innovations. In 1956, designer Jean Schlumberger joined the brand, and his creations, such as the Bird on a Rock brooch, became legendary.
His imaginative designs, which often merged elements of nature with fantasy, remain some of Tiffany’s most celebrated pieces. Around the same time, artist Andy Warhol collaborated with the company to design whimsical holiday cards, further solidifying Tiffany’s influence in both fashion and art.
The Selling
Tiffany & Co. was acquired by Avon Products, Inc., in November 1978 for approximately $104 million in stock. However, a 1984 Newsweek article criticized the store's image, likening the Fifth Avenue flagship to Macy's during a white sale due to the proliferation of low-cost items.
In August 1984, Avon sold Tiffany to an investor group led by William R. Chaney for $135.5 million in cash. Tiffany went public once again in 1987, raising around $103.5 million through the issuance of 4.5 million shares of common stock.
To combat the impact of the 1990–1991 U.S. recession, Tiffany & Co. shifted focus to mass marketing. The company launched fresh advertisements promoting affordability while retaining its luxurious image. This approach allowed Tiffany to broaden its appeal while maintaining high-style branding in its stores.
The brand trademarked its iconic Tiffany Blue hue in 1998. Three years later, it collaborated with Pantone to standardize the color as "1837 Blue," named after the year of Tiffany’s founding.
Going to Court
In November 2019, LVMH announced plans to acquire Tiffany & Co. for $16.2 billion, or $135 per share, with the deal expected to close in June 2020.
However, in September 2020, Tiffany filed a lawsuit against LVMH after the latter decided to back out of the transaction, seeking to compel the purchase or recover damages. LVMH countersued, alleging that Tiffany had mismanaged the business.
A report in Forbes indicated that LVMH’s withdrawal stemmed from concerns over Tiffany’s continued dividend payments during the COVID-19 pandemic, which had caused significant financial strain.
In October 2020, the companies reached an agreement, reducing the purchase price to $131.5 per share, bringing the total deal value to over $16 billion. The lawsuits were dismissed, and Tiffany shareholders approved the revised $15.8 billion agreement in December 2020.
The acquisition was finalized on January 7, 2021, and Tiffany’s shares were subsequently delisted from the New York Stock Exchange.
Several top executives were replaced with personnel from LVMH’s other divisions, with Alexandre Arnault, son of LVMH CEO Bernard Arnault, appointed executive vice president.
The Blue Book
Debuting in 1845, the Tiffany & Co. Blue Book was the first direct-mail catalog in the United States. It showcased an extensive range of products, from jewelry to home goods, and set the standard for luxury catalogs.
Over time, the Blue Book evolved into an annual presentation of Tiffany High Jewelry. It highlighted the brand’s creativity, rare gemstones, and exceptional craftsmanship, becoming synonymous with the pinnacle of Tiffany’s artistry.
Today, Tiffany & Co.’s high jewelry pays homage to the Blue Book’s original vision of offering unparalleled quality, even though the collection is no longer formally called the "Blue Book Collection."
Tiffany & Co. Products
Tiffany & Co. caters to jewelry collectors and enthusiasts with a diverse selection of high-quality pieces for varying budgets:
- Necklaces and Pendants: Everyday diamonds, chain, layering, bold
- Earrings: Stud, hoop, drop and dangle, wedding, statement
- Bracelets: Chain, bangle, tennis, stacking, cuff
- Rings: Wedding band, stacking, eternity, cocktail, men’s and signet
- Brooches and Pins
- Men’s Jewelry
Over the years, Tiffany has launched iconic collections such as:
- Tiffany Lock
- Tiffany T
- Tiffany HardWear
- Tiffany Knot
- Return to Tiffany
- Tiffany True
- Tiffany 1837
- Tiffany & Co.
- Schlumberger
- Tiffany Forever
These collections reflect the brand’s timeless appeal and ongoing innovation.
Tiffany & Co.'s Iconic Jewelry Designers
Jean Schlumberger
In 1956, the visionary designer Jean Schlumberger joined Tiffany & Co. at the invitation of Chairman Walter Hoving.
Schlumberger’s work is celebrated for its imaginative and whimsical designs, often inspired by nature and fantasy.
His creations, such as the iconic Bird on a Rock brooch (first designed in 1965), are characterized by their creative use of diamonds and colored gemstones, and remain highly sought after in the secondary market.
Jean Schlumberger via Tiffany & Co. Newsroom
Elsa Peretti
Joining Tiffany & Co. in 1974, Elsa Peretti brought a modern, sculptural aesthetic to the brand.
Her designs, including the legendary Bone Cuff, are considered revolutionary. The Bone Cuff remains a statement piece in contemporary fashion, famously worn by Miley Cyrus at the 2024 Grammy Awards in an 18K gold iteration.
Beyond the Bone Cuff, Elsa Peretti is celebrated for creating other iconic pieces like Bean Tiffany, Open Heart, and Diamonds by the Yard. These designs showcase her ability to blend simplicity with elegance, transforming everyday jewelry into timeless works of art.
Elsa Peretti - Photo Credit: VecaLovass via Wikimedia Commons
Paloma Picasso
In 1980, Paloma Picasso introduced her first jewelry line at Tiffany & Co., drawing inspiration from the vibrant graffiti found on New York City streets.
Her collections, known for their bold, artistic designs, include the distinctive X motif, Melody Bangles, and Olive Leaf patterns.
Paloma’s work reflects a unique blend of contemporary flair and timeless appeal, cementing her legacy as one of Tiffany’s most influential designers.
Paloma Picasso - Photo Credit: Eduardo Correa, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Diamonds: A Legacy of Brilliance
Tiffany & Co. is synonymous with exquisite diamonds and sterling silver creations. The brand’s reputation for excellence in diamond jewelry can be attributed, in part, to the contributions of gemologist George Frederick Kunz (1856–1932).
Kunz played a pivotal role in the global adoption of the metric carat as the standard unit for gem weight. In recent years, Tiffany has championed transparency in its diamond sourcing.
In 2019, CEO Alessandro Bogliolo announced the company’s commitment to disclosing the origin of its newly sourced diamonds, ensuring ethical practices and sustainability in its supply chain.
The Tiffany Diamond
One of Tiffany & Co.’s most celebrated treasures is the Tiffany Diamond. Acquired by Charles Lewis Tiffany in 1878, the rough yellow diamond originally weighed 278.42 carats.
It was recut into a stunning 128.54-carat masterpiece the following year. Today, it stands as one of the largest fancy yellow diamonds in the world.
The Tiffany Diamond is typically displayed at the brand’s flagship store in New York City, where it continues to captivate visitors with its unparalleled brilliance.
Audrey Hepburn famously wore it during promotional photos for Breakfast at Tiffany’s, further cementing its iconic status.
To better showcase diamonds like the Tiffany Diamond, Charles Tiffany revolutionized ring design with the Tiffany Setting.
The Tiffany Setting
Introduced in 1886, the Tiffany Setting transformed the way diamonds are showcased in engagement rings.
By lifting the diamond above the band with a six-prong setting, Tiffany ensured maximum light exposure, enhancing the stone’s brilliance. This was a stark departure from the traditional bezel settings of the time, which partially obscured the gem.
The nearly invisible prongs of the Tiffany Setting create the illusion of the diamond floating above the band, a design that has earned multiple accolades at international exhibitions.
Today, it remains one of the most popular engagement ring styles in the world, celebrated for its timeless elegance and innovative craftsmanship.
Colored Gemstones
Tiffany & Co. has long been celebrated for its exceptional use of colorful gemstones, including varieties it helped popularize, such as morganite, kunzite, and tsavorite.
These gemstones add vibrancy and uniqueness to Tiffany’s collections, cementing the brand’s reputation for innovation and artistry in fine jewelry.
One notable example of Tiffany's mastery of gemstone design is the turquoise and aquamarine bib necklace created by then-design director Francesca Amfitheatrof.
This striking piece, worn by Cate Blanchett at the 2015 Academy Awards, stood out against the diamond-studded jewelry favored by other celebrities, showcasing Tiffany’s ability to redefine red-carpet elegance.
Fragrances
Tiffany & Co. ventured into the fragrance industry in the late 1980s, expanding its brand into new realms of luxury. In 1987, François Demachy created the floral perfume Tiffany, which was introduced for women and successfully retailed at $220 per ounce in major U.S. department stores.
Two years later, Tiffany for Men, designed by perfumer Jacques Polge, was released with bottles for both fragrances created by Pierre Dinand. In 1995, the company launched Trueste, a fragrance for women, although it was later discontinued.
More recently, Tiffany debuted Tiffany & Love in October 2019, a modern fragrance line that redefined the brand’s olfactory identity for a new generation of enthusiasts. Tiffany Blue
The signature
Tiffany Blue has become synonymous with the brand’s identity, first used by Charles Lewis Tiffany in the 1840s.
This robin’s egg blue was trademarked as Tiffany Blue in 1998, further solidifying its place as one of the most recognizable brand colors in the world.
In 2001, the hue was standardized by Pantone as "1837 Blue," a reference to the year Tiffany & Co. was founded.
This custom color continues to symbolize Tiffany’s timeless elegance and prestige.
Contemporary Creations
Over the past decade, Tiffany & Co. has embraced modernity while staying true to its heritage. The brand has advanced its sustainability goals, launched contemporary jewelry designs, and introduced a chic Home & Accessories line.
In 2012, Tiffany celebrated its 175th anniversary with the Legacy line, which showcased a dazzling array of colorful gemstones and diamonds.
Notable creations included a necklace featuring a cushion-cut 175.72-carat morganite and a ring adorned with a velvety blue tanzanite set in an intricate diamond open-work design.
The launch of the Tiffany T line in 2014 marked a new era for the brand. This collection, characterized by its bold “T” motif, has become an enduring symbol of the house. Among its variations, the Tiffany T1 design stands out as a striking representation of courage, strength, and hope, highlighted by Tiffany diamonds.
In a nod to its legacy of Love & Engagement, Tiffany introduced the Tiffany True engagement ring—its first new engagement ring design in over a decade—ushering in a fresh chapter of romance and sophistication.
Tiffany fragrances have also evolved, with standout products like the signature Tiffany Eau de Parfum and the Tiffany & Love fragrances for Him and Her, redefining the brand’s allure in the fragrance industry.
For Eternity
From the classic Metro collection, featuring perfectly aligned rows of diamonds, to the bold Roman numerals of the Atlas collection and the intricate diamond-set designs of the Victoria collection, Tiffany & Co. offers timeless jewelry that resonates with women of all ages.
Tiffany & Co. remains an icon of luxury, retaining its status as one of the most sought-after brands in the world.
Pre-owned Tiffany & Co. rings consistently hold their value better than any other branded jewelry, a testament to the enduring appeal of the company’s impeccable designs and superior craftsmanship.
Cover Photo via Wikimedia Commons
