The House of Asprey: A Royal Legacy in British Luxury
The House of Asprey has been a symbol of British luxury and craftsmanship for over 160 years, holding a prominent place as the flagship store of an iconic luxury brand.
Asprey was founded in 1781 by William Asprey, a descendant of a Huguenot family who fled France during Louis XIV's reign.
Like many French Protestants seeking refuge in England, William’s ancestors brought with them exceptional artisanal skills, excelling in metalwork, leather crafting, and watchmaking.
Pen tray (Asprey via Wikimedia Commons)
Asprey's Connection to Royalty
Asprey’s illustrious relationship with the British Royal Family began in 1862 when Queen Victoria granted the brand its first Royal Warrant for “traveling trunks.”
According to "Extraordinary Jewels" by John Traina, this initial recognition established a tradition of royal patronage that has endured for generations.
Every reigning monarch and Prince of Wales since Queen Victoria has upheld this connection, with King George VI expanding Asprey’s role in 1940 by awarding the brand a Royal Warrant for jewelry.
This royal bond was further solidified when Queen Mary purchased an exquisite five-strand natural pearl necklace with a diamond-set Art Deco clasp as a gift for Princess Margaret’s 18th birthday.
The necklace, cherished by Margaret and featured in many iconic portraits by Sir Cecil Beaton, sold in 2006 for $347,623—well above its initial valuation—underscoring the timeless allure of Asprey’s creations.
Prestigious Clientele
Asprey’s history with the British Royal Family has cemented its reputation as a purveyor of luxury. From bespoke travel trunks to fine leather goods and silverware, the brand has consistently catered to the aristocracy, world travelers, and prominent figures.
Asprey’s client list extends beyond British royalty, encompassing heads of state, American tycoons such as J.P. Morgan, and Indian maharajahs, including those of Patiala and Cooch Behar.
Its tiaras, crafted with unparalleled craftsmanship, have adorned royalty and nobility across the globe, a tradition that remains alive today.
Asprey Logo (DSF Antique Jewelry)
The Founding of a Luxury Empire
Asprey's journey began in 1781 in Surrey as a printer and silk merchant. By 1847, under the leadership of Charles Asprey and his son, the business relocated to London's Bond Street, evolving into the renowned "Golden Gift Shop."
Asprey quickly gained recognition for its bespoke travel trunks, luxurious glassware, silverware, and finely crafted leather goods, becoming a hallmark of Victorian society's elegance.
A Global Reputation for Excellence
Asprey's participation in the 1851 Great Exhibition marked a turning point in its rise to fame. The company’s kingwood dressing case received critical acclaim for its exceptional craftsmanship, attracting affluent travelers from both sides of the Atlantic.
Asprey's exquisite travel accessories and trunks solidified its international reputation for luxury.
Expansion and Expertise
In 1888, Asprey acquired the French jewelry house Leuchars & Son, integrating a team of expert goldsmiths, silversmiths, and engravers. This strategic acquisition enabled the brand to offer custom-engraved luxury goods on-site, a service highly sought after by its elite clientele.
As Asprey grew, it established state-of-the-art manufacturing facilities and expanded its artisan team to include silversmiths, goldsmiths, jewelers, and watchmakers. Among them was Ernest Betjeman, the father of celebrated poet John Betjeman, whose expertise as a craftsman and designer further elevated Asprey's reputation.
A Showcase of Ingenuity
The early 20th century highlighted Asprey’s creative flair with whimsical commissions that combined luxury and artistry.
Asprey 18K Gold Blue Topaz Sapphire & Diamond Ring (DSF Antique Jewelry)
One notable creation, detailed in "Extraordinary Jewels" by John Traina, was a triple-decker egg-and-bacon sandwich crafted by Asprey’s workshops. Designed in collaboration with renowned chef Escoffier, the piece was housed in a silver-gilt box adorned with diamond-studded embellishments.
Another iconic commission came from a Texan millionaire lamenting the lack of quality sandwiches in Birmingham.
Asprey’s craftsmen responded by designing an extravagant silver box for his sandwich, complete with crimped edges and opulent diamond detailing. This bespoke creation became a testament to the brand’s ability to blend functionality with unmatched grandeur.
Continued Creativity
Asprey’s imaginative approach extended to unique commissions, such as an emerald-and-diamond bracelet for a Mughal client. So impressed was the patron with the design that he commissioned six additional pieces.
Asprey’s ability to deliver bespoke creations, from family heirlooms in gold and silver to elaborate decorative works, established its status as a paragon of luxury.
The brand continues to exemplify elegance and craftsmanship, meeting the needs of a discerning clientele with a commitment to excellence.
Asprey 18K Gold Diamond Ruby & Keshi Pearl Earrings (DSF Antique Jewlely)
Exquisite Craftsmanship
One of Asprey's most distinctive commissions came from a Mughal client seeking a unique emerald-and-diamond bracelet.
The design, approved from an initial sketch, was brought to life with exceptional craftsmanship. So impressed was the client that he immediately commissioned six additional pieces, each as exquisite as the first.
Asprey has long been synonymous with bespoke creations, excelling in crafting custom-made family heirlooms from gold and silver. These include not only jewelry but also grand decorative works, murals, and ornamental art.
Although rare, whimsical commissions such as silver sandwiches and biscuit-themed pieces highlight the brand’s imaginative approach.
Small tazza (Asprey via Wikimedia Commons)
Beyond Jewelry
Asprey’s expertise extends beyond fine jewelry. The company has a rich history of creating sentimental and ceremonial items, such as swords, daggers, regalia, and badges of honor.
These pieces are often commissioned by governments, royalty, and aristocrats, underscoring Asprey’s global reputation for excellence. The brand also supplies luxury goods like silverware, fine china, clocks, and furniture.
Asprey’s creations serve as both personal adornments and elegant enhancements to the refined homes of its elite clientele. From intricately designed doorknobs to bespoke keyholes, Asprey’s attention to detail ensures even the smallest elements exude luxury and craftsmanship.
Despite its wide-ranging expertise, Asprey’s primary focus remains fine jewelry. The brand continues to produce unique, custom designs that uphold its legacy of exceptional quality and uncompromising standards.
Ownership Transitions
In 1995, Prince Jefri Bolkiah's Amedeo Development Corporation acquired Asprey for $311 million. The Asprey family retained a 10% share in the company, receiving over £100 million from the sale.
Following a period of underperformance under its new ownership, Asprey divested its subsidiary brands, including Mappin & Webb, Watches of Switzerland, and Hamilton & Inches, in 1998.
The company was subsequently rebranded as Asprey & Garrard and relocated from its iconic premises on 112 Regent Street to New Bond Street.
Jewels of Royal Significance
Asprey’s longstanding association with the British Royal Family is legendary, solidifying its reputation as a jeweler of unmatched prestige. The brand has crafted some of the most iconic royal jewels, such as the Maple Leaf diamond brooch, gifted to Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother by King George VI.
Equally memorable is the sapphire and diamond suite, presented to Queen Elizabeth II by Sheikh Rashid of Dubai. This set, later reworked into a demi-parure featuring a stunning bracelet, became one of the Queen's most photographed ensembles. She famously paired the suite with Queen Alexandra’s Kokoshnik Tiara during the 2005 centenary celebrations for Alberta and Saskatchewan.
Princess Diana also graced Asprey’s creations. Upon her marriage to Prince Charles in 1981, Crown Prince Fahd of Saudi Arabia presented her with a breathtaking sapphire and diamond parure designed by Asprey.
Among the standout pieces was a sapphire pendant, later worn by Diana on a velvet choker in her signature, reimagined style.
The Princess of Wales and Modern Asprey Glamour
Kate, the Princess of Wales, continues this royal affinity for Asprey's craftsmanship. She has frequently showcased Asprey's exquisite designs, from the diamond and amethyst 167 button earrings she wore at a 2017 London Marathon training event to her appearances in other royal jewels.
One of Kate's most striking moments was at the 2022 Earthshot Awards in Boston, where she donned Asprey's emerald and diamond earrings. The pieces perfectly complemented Queen Mary's emerald and diamond choker, a testament to Asprey's ability to seamlessly blend modern sophistication with historic grandeur.
Stars Who Wore Asprey Jewelry
Renowned for its unparalleled elegance, Asprey has been a favorite choice for numerous Hollywood stars who have adorned its exquisite creations on red carpets worldwide.
Helen Mirren, Helena Bonham Carter, Kate Winslet, Jessica Chastain, and Kerry Washington are among the distinguished celebrities who have showcased Asprey’s opulent designs at prestigious events, from film premieres to major award ceremonies.
Helen Mirren, known for her regal and refined style, often chooses Asprey's high-end jewelry to complement her sophisticated red carpet ensembles.
In contrast, Helena Bonham Carter brings her bold and eclectic fashion sensibilities to life by incorporating Asprey's statement pieces into her award-show and premiere looks.
Asprey Ruby Gold Eagle Stick Pin (DSF Antique Jewelry)
A long-time advocate of timeless elegance, Kate Winslet frequently selects Asprey jewelry to enhance her poised and classic aesthetic on the red carpet.
Similarly, Jessica Chastain—admired for her graceful and timeless style—seamlessly pairs Asprey’s iconic pieces with her glamorous award-show attire.
Kerry Washington, celebrated for her chic and modern fashion choices, has also been seen donning Asprey jewelry on several occasions, adding a fresh and sophisticated edge to her red carpet looks.
The high-profile endorsements from Hollywood’s elite underscore Asprey’s status as a symbol of elegance and prestige. The brand’s designs, often inspired by nature and crafted from luxurious materials such as diamonds and gold, resonate with both celebrities and royalty alike.
Asprey 18K Gold Diamond Ruby & Sapphire Dancing Man Stick Pin (DSF Antique Jewelry)
Asprey Famous Jewelry and Techniques
Asprey is renowned for its iconic jewelry, showcasing British elegance, craftsmanship, and luxury.
Below are some of the most celebrated Asprey jewelry pieces and collections:
The Asprey-Cut Diamond
The Asprey-cut Diamond is a distinctive and luxurious innovation that highlights Asprey's dedication to precision and artistry. Introduced during the brand's relaunch in 2004, it reimagines the classic cushion cut, emphasizing Asprey’s mastery of craftsmanship and attention to detail.
Key features of the Asprey-cut Diamond include:
- Unique Shape: A softened square silhouette, combining timeless elegance with a contemporary aesthetic.
- Signature Branding: The inclusion of the letter "A" on the diamond's crown—a discreet yet powerful nod to the brand—achieved through precise hand-cutting techniques.
- Facet Arrangement: Comprising 61 meticulously angled facets, this cut maximizes light dispersion, resulting in exceptional brilliance and a luminous glow.
- Exclusivity: The handmade nature and branded "A" ensure that each diamond is a rare and bespoke creation.
The Asprey-cut Diamond is a symbol of exclusivity and innovation, reinforcing the brand’s position as a leader in high-end jewelry design.
The Daisy Collection
The Daisy Collection draws inspiration from the natural beauty and simplicity of the daisy flower. It transforms this humble bloom into elegant jewelry pieces that exude sophistication and charm.
- Design Elements: The petals are represented using marquise-cut gemstones like yellow sapphires or aquamarines, while white diamonds form the flower’s center.
- Materials: Crafted from precious metals such as 18ct yellow, white, or rose gold, adding a refined and luxurious touch.
- Range: Includes rings, necklaces, earrings, and bracelets, each piece embodying the delicate allure of nature.
The Daisy Collection epitomizes Asprey’s tradition of turning nature into wearable art, merging timeless beauty with exceptional craftsmanship.
The Sunflower Collection
The Sunflower Collection embraces bold and radiant designs inspired by the iconic sunflower. Similar to the Daisy Collection, this line showcases meticulous craftsmanship.
- Design: Large, lifelike petals crafted from yellow gold radiate outward, encircling pavé-set diamond centers.
- Range: Includes pendants, earrings, and bracelets, embodying the warmth, joy, and vitality of sunflowers.
This collection exudes natural brilliance, making each piece a striking symbol of happiness and energy.
The Woodland Collection
The Woodland Collection offers a whimsical celebration of the natural world, drawing inspiration from the serene beauty of the forest.
- Key Motifs: Oak leaves and forest elements are central to the designs.
- Signature Piece: The Oak Leaf Crossover Ring in 18ct yellow gold, featuring textured leaves adorned with pavé-set diamonds, highlights the collection’s rustic elegance.
These pieces evoke the magic of nature, blending raw beauty with luxurious sophistication.
Princess Diana’s Aquamarine Ring
One of Asprey’s most famous creations is the 30-carat aquamarine ring commissioned by Princess Diana.
- Design: The ring features a vibrant aquamarine surrounded by diamonds and set in yellow gold.
- Legacy: Famously worn by Meghan Markle, this ring carries the weight of royal history and timeless elegance.
The Protector Collection
The Protector Collection, launched in 2009, was co-designed by Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt.
- Inspiration: Centered on the snake motif, which Angelina Jolie associates with protection, inspired by a snake-shaped ring she received during her pregnancy.
- Design: Pieces include pendants, rings with micropavé diamonds, and even baby items like silver spoons and tooth boxes, all featuring the snake's graceful curves.
- Philanthropy: Proceeds were donated to the Education Partnership for Children of Conflict, a charity co-founded by Angelina Jolie.
The collection seamlessly combined luxury with a humanitarian mission, reinforcing Asprey’s commitment to meaningful design.
Asprey’s Custom Creations and Cultural Significance
Custom Commissions for British Royalty
Asprey’s enduring relationship with the British Royal Family is exemplified through bespoke creations that highlight its mastery of luxury design:
- Coronation Year Gold Collection: Crafted for Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation, this collection included gold dessert, coffee, and liqueur sets, showcasing Asprey’s ability to create exquisite ceremonial items.
These items reinforced Asprey’s position as a trusted supplier to the Crown, offering unparalleled craftsmanship and exclusivity.
Bespoke Chess Set for Ringo Starr
Asprey’s creativity extends beyond traditional jewelry into unique luxury commissions:
- Design: Created in 1973 in collaboration with designer Robin Cruikshank, the chess set features pieces modeled after Ringo Starr’s hands, adorned with his iconic rings.
- Materials: Crafted from sterling silver and gold-plated materials, the set is an opulent representation of Ringo’s personal style and legacy.
- Significance: This chess set is celebrated as one of the most extravagant board game creations in luxury design, blending human connection with artistic individuality, and remains a prized collector’s item.
Asprey on the Silver Screen
Asprey’s jewelry has made memorable appearances in iconic films, further cementing its cultural relevance:
- Titanic (1997): Played a key role in the creation of the legendary "Heart of the Ocean" necklace, a central piece in the blockbuster film.
- Flawless (2007)
- Confessions of a Shopaholic (2009)
- Sherlock Holmes (2009)
- The Ghost Writer (2010)
- The Tourist (2010)
- Nanny McPhee: The Big Bang (2010)
- My Week with Marilyn (2011) – Filmed at Asprey's flagship store on New Bond Street. These appearances underscore Asprey’s prominence in the world of luxury, with its designs symbolizing elegance, heritage, and cinematic drama.
Asprey Today
Today, the House of Asprey continues to craft timeless pieces that bridge tradition and innovation.
Its enduring relationship with the British Royal Family underscores its standing as one of the world’s most prestigious names in fine jewelry and luxury goods.
Asprey’s reputation as a creator of iconic and exquisite jewelry reflects its long-standing heritage of British craftsmanship and luxury.
Cover Photo: Asprey, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons
