Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin: A Fusion of Glamour and Innovation
Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin redefined fine jewelry with bold Art Deco designs, Hollywood glamour, and innovative craftsmanship, shaping luxury for generations.
Founded in 1930 on Park Avenue, New York, Trabert & Hoeffer quickly gained recognition in the world of fine jewelry. The firm became widely known for its bold designs and, in 1936, partnered with the Parisian jeweler Mauboussin, forming Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin.
This collaboration blended French artistry with American craftsmanship, producing distinctive jewelry that appealed to high society and Hollywood’s elite. The partnership lasted until 1953, after which the business continued to evolve.
In 1968, Chicagoan Don Levinson acquired the Chicago location, expanding its offerings with custom designs and curated pieces from renowned artisans. In 1995, the store relocated to 111 East Oak Street, preserving the intimate Art Deco-style salon that remains central to the brand’s heritage.
Today, Trabert & Hoeffer remains a respected name in fine jewelry, known for its dedication to quality and craftsmanship.
Trabert Hoeffer Mauboussin Gold Cufflinks - DSF Antique Jewelry
Hollywood and High Society Influence
During Hollywood’s Golden Age, jewelry served as more than an accessory—it was a reflection of status, elegance, and artistic expression.
Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin became one of the most sought-after names, designing bold Art Deco pieces adorned with exceptional gemstones. Their creations were worn by some of the most celebrated actresses of the era, including Marlene Dietrich, Greta Garbo, Mary Pickford, and Joan Crawford.
According to "If These Jewels Could Talk: The Legends Behind Celebrity Gems" by Beth Bernstein, Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin's name first appeared on screen in "The Gilded Lily" (1935) and later in "The Vogues of 1938", where a ruby bracelet featured prominently, followed by the running of its credit.
Their designs frequently appeared on the red carpet and in films, further cementing their reputation as a leading jewelry house of the era.
Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin Earrings - DSF Antique Jewelry
Marlene Dietrich: The Queen of Emeralds
Marlene Dietrich was renowned for her daring style and impeccable taste in jewelry. She had a deep appreciation for extravagant pieces, particularly emeralds, and Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin crafted some of her most iconic jewels.
Dietrich's collection included an exquisite cabochon emerald bracelet and a matching brooch, both set in platinum and encrusted with diamonds. These pieces, which she famously wore in "Desire" (1936) and "Angel" (1937), became synonymous with her image. Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin also designed a convertible ring for her, allowing her to interchange her prized emeralds.
Maria Riva, Dietrich's daughter, described the extraordinary size of these emeralds in her biography of her mother, stating that "the largest was the size of a Grade A egg and the smallest, no smaller than a large marble."
Beyond the silver screen, Dietrich frequently wore these pieces to social events, further cementing her status as one of Hollywood's most stylish and influential women.
Greta Garbo: Understated Elegance with Royal History
In contrast to Dietrich’s love for bold statement pieces, Greta Garbo was known for her preference for understated elegance. However, when she did wear remarkable jewelry, it often carried historical significance.
One of the most famous examples was her appearance in "Marie Antoinette" (1938), where she wore a necklace and bracelet set that had once belonged to Empress Marie-Louise, wife of Napoleon I.
These antique jewels, featuring emeralds, rubies, sapphires, amethysts, topazes, diamonds, and enamel, were provided by Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin for the film. Originally from the collection of Archduchess Immaculata of Vienna, these pieces brought a level of authenticity and regal opulence to Garbo's portrayal of the ill-fated queen.
Off-screen, Garbo’s personal jewelry collection leaned towards sophisticated diamond pieces, often reflecting the intricate Art Deco aesthetic favored by Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin.
Mary Pickford: The Star Sapphire Collector
Mary Pickford, America's sweetheart of silent cinema, had a deep appreciation for sentimental and historically significant jewelry.
Among her most treasured acquisitions was the Star of Bombay, a 182-carat star sapphire, which Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin set into a platinum ring—an iconic gift from her husband, Douglas Fairbanks.
A devoted client of the jeweler, Pickford’s collection featured a variety of Art Deco diamond pieces, charm bracelets, and brooches. One of her standout pieces was a wide diamond bracelet with a cabochon sapphire centerpiece, which she often paired with her rings, seamlessly blending vintage and contemporary styles.
Known for refreshing her collection, she frequently updated older designs while staying true to her timeless aesthetic. Upon her passing, Pickford bequeathed the Star of Bombay to the Smithsonian Institution, ensuring its place in jewelry history.
Joan Crawford: The Lover of Bold, Statement Jewels
Joan Crawford’s personal style was defined by sharp angles, bold designs, and a commanding presence—qualities mirrored in Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin’s creations.
One of her most recognizable pieces was a dramatic ruby bracelet, prominently featured in "The Gilded Lily" (1935) and "The Vogues of 1938". The latter film even showcased the bracelet in its opening credits, reinforcing its status as a cinematic icon.
Crawford had a particular affinity for cabochon-cut gemstones, favoring oversized sapphires and rubies set in platinum, often accented with intricate diamond detailing. Her signature jewelry style became synonymous with her powerful screen presence.
Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin also designed one of her most cherished pieces—a diamond bracelet featuring 31 carats of marquise, baguette, and round-cut diamonds. This statement piece, along with the rest of her collection, exemplified her preference for bold, sculptural jewelry that accentuated her distinctive Hollywood glamour.
Innovative Design and Craftsmanship
Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin revolutionized the jewelry industry by shifting away from traditional, rigid styles and embracing personalized, modular jewelry. The firm introduced the "Reflection — Your Personality in a Jewel" concept, which emphasized individuality in fine jewelry design.
One of their most innovative contributions was the Reflection line, introduced in 1938 by designer Gustave Toth. This collection allowed customers to personalize their jewelry by selecting and arranging cast design elements, making high-end customization more accessible beyond the ultra-wealthy elite. While these pieces were not entirely handmade, they were meticulously hand-finished, striking a balance between affordability and exclusivity.
Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin also pioneered multi-functional jewelry, exemplified by their jigsaw jewelry—pieces designed to be disassembled and reassembled into different forms. Bracelets could transform into rings, necklaces into brooches, and pendants into earrings, offering versatility to match dynamic lifestyles.
One of their most famous innovations was the Clipmate, a versatile double brooch that could be worn as a single statement piece or separated into two matching clips, providing flexibility in styling.
The firm's design evolution reflected the major stylistic shifts of the era. In the 1930s, their jewelry embodied bold, geometric Art Deco designs, featuring platinum, diamonds, and colored gemstones.
By the 1940s, they embraced the Retro aesthetic, characterized by sculptural gold designs, oversized cocktail rings, and floral motifs, often set with rubies, sapphires, and aquamarines.
International Reach
Despite the economic challenges of the Great Depression and World War II, Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin successfully expanded, opening branches in Los Angeles, Atlantic City, Miami Beach, Palm Beach, Detroit, and Paris.
Their ability to thrive during these turbulent periods was a testament to their resilience, adaptability, and dedication to fine craftsmanship.
Beyond Hollywood, the firm catered to European royalty and high society, often acquiring and offering historically significant jewels. Notable examples included diamond earrings that once belonged to Catherine the Great and a suite of antique emerald, ruby, sapphire, and diamond jewelry from the collection of Archduchess Immaculata of Vienna.
These acquisitions underscored their appreciation for heritage pieces and their role in preserving the legacy of fine jewelry.
Trabert Hoeffer Mauboussin Ruby Emerald Sapphire Gold Christmas Tree Brooch - DSF Antique Jewelry
Modern-Day Trabert & Hoeffer
Trabert & Hoeffer’s legacy is one of innovation, adaptability, and glamour. From their collaboration with Mauboussin and Hollywood prominence to their revolutionary Reflection line and versatile jigsaw jewelry, the firm has continually pushed the boundaries of fine jewelry design. Their influence reflects the evolution of fashion, culture, and craftsmanship throughout the 20th century and beyond.
Today, Trabert & Hoeffer continues to honor its tradition of excellence in jewelry-making. The company offers a selection of both contemporary and vintage pieces, including rings, earrings, necklaces, bracelets, pins, and cufflinks, crafted by internationally renowned designers and master jewelers.
Their deep-rooted connection to Hollywood glamour, combined with their blend of European design and American manufacturing, ensures that Trabert & Hoeffer remains a distinguished name in fine jewelry.
Biography
Beth Bernstein, "If These Jewels Could Talk: The Legends Behind Celebrity Gems"
Parke-Bernet Galleries, "Valuable Precious-Stone Jewelry"
Penny Proddow & Marion Fasel, "Diamonds: A Century of Spectacular Jewels"
VIEW OUR COLLECTION OF ANTIQUE & VINTAGE JEWELRY
VIEW OUR JOURNAL & NEWS
READ OUR INTERESTING FACTS ARTICLES
