Article: Black, Starr & Frost – America's First Jeweler
Black, Starr & Frost – America's First Jeweler
Black, Starr & Frost is more than just a jewelry house - it is a legacy woven into the history of American luxury and craftsmanship.
Established in 1810, it holds the distinction of being the oldest jewelry firm in the United States, predating even Tiffany & Co. and Cartier. For over two centuries, the brand has adorned some of the most influential figures in American history, setting industry trends and defining elegance in an ever-evolving luxury landscape.
Throughout the prosperity of the mid-to-late 19th century and the grandeur of the Gilded Age, Black, Starr & Frost catered to America’s elite. Its clientele included the Rockefellers, Vanderbilts, Carnegies, and Guggenheims - names synonymous with wealth and influence.
Black Starr & Frost Antique Edwardian Platinum Pearl Diamond Pendant Watch - DSF Antique Jewelry
The Birth of an Icon
The story of Black, Starr & Frost begins with Isaac Marquand, a skilled silversmith and clockmaker who founded Marquand & Company in 1810 at 164 Broadway, New York City. Initially operating from a private office, the firm quickly gained a reputation for its fine silverware and jewelry, attracting the city's affluent clientele.
As the business expanded, strategic partnerships elevated its prestige. By 1851, after William Black and Henry Ball joined the company, it was rebranded as Ball, Black & Company.
This era solidified its status as a premier jeweler, counting among its patrons Mary Todd Lincoln, whose lavish spending on jewelry famously led to debts at the firm following President Lincoln’s assassination.
Black Starr & Frost Antique Edwardian Platinum Pearl Diamond Pendant Watch - DSF Antique Jewelry
The Rise to Prominence
In 1874, the firm rebranded as Black, Starr & Frost with the inclusion of Cortlandt W. Starr and Aaron Frost as partners. This marked a pivotal shift toward an even greater focus on fine jewelry and silverware, blending European craftsmanship with in-house designs.
The company’s growing reputation earned it an invitation to exhibit at the 1876 Centennial Exposition in Philadelphia, showcasing its mastery alongside the era’s most prestigious jewelry houses.
By the late 19th century, New York City had established itself as the jewelry capital of America, and Black, Starr & Frost stood at the heart of this transformation.
As artistic movements evolved, the firm embraced Art Nouveau and Art Deco influences in the early 20th century, producing elegant, avant-garde pieces. Its Fifth Avenue boutique became a beacon of luxury, frequented by the wealthiest families, including the Rockefellers, Vanderbilts, and Carnegies.
Antique Black Starr & Frost Sterling 8 Days Clock - DSF Antique Jewelry
Mergers, Milestones, and Hollywood Recognition
In 1929, Black, Starr & Frost merged with Gorham, a renowned name in fine silver, forming Black, Starr & Frost-Gorham. This partnership reinforced the firm’s stature as a leader in both jewelry and silversmithing.
The firm’s prestige reached new heights in 1939, when it was among only five American jewelers invited to exhibit at the New York World's Fair—a testament to its continued excellence.
Even Hollywood immortalized the brand’s legacy. In 1953, Marilyn Monroe famously sang "Diamonds Are a Girl's Best Friend" in "Gentlemen Prefer Blondes", name-dropping Black, Starr & Frost alongside Tiffany & Co., Cartier, and Harry Winston. This cultural reference cemented its place in the pantheon of luxury jewelers.
Black Starr & Frost Star Sapphire Gold Cufflink 4 Stud Set - DSF Antique Jewelry
Throughout the decades, Black, Starr & Frost continued to adapt while staying true to its legacy. The firm’s designs reflected changing tastes—from the delicate Belle Époque chokers of the early 1900s to the bold Art Deco sautoirs and bracelets of the 1920s and 1930s.
The mid-20th century saw further expansion, including a flagship store at New York’s Plaza Hotel, attracting a growing clientele of high-profile figures, including Elizabeth Taylor and Bunny Mellon.
Black Starr & Frost Gorham Antique Platinum Jade Pocket Watch - DSF Antique Jewelry
Challenges and Revival
Despite its long-standing success, Black, Starr & Frost faced significant challenges in the latter half of the 20th century. By 1991, the company operated 33 locations, but shifting market dynamics led to a gradual contraction. By 2006, only a single store remained in Costa Mesa, California.
It was at this critical juncture that Alfredo Molina, an 11th-generation jeweler, acquired the firm, determined to restore its former prestige. Under Molina's leadership, the company relocated to Newport Beach and expanded with a second location in Phoenix, breathing new life into the storied brand. His vision extended beyond mere expansion—he sought to reposition Black, Starr & Frost among the world's premier jewelers.
"Tiffany & Co., Cartier, and Harry Winston are billion-dollar brands. So why not Black, Starr & Frost?" Molina remarked. "My dream for this iconic brand is to return to its roots by reopening in 15 historically significant locations, most importantly New York City."
Black Starr & Frost Carved Jade Gold Enamel Letter Opener - DSF Antique Jewelry
Throughout its history, Black, Starr & Frost has been at the forefront of industry innovation. According to Molina, the firm pioneered several notable firsts:
- The first class rings for the United States Military Academy at West Point in 1837
- The earliest safety deposit boxes during the Civil War
- The first plate-glass window—arguably making it the birthplace of modern window shopping (1833)
Beyond its legacy, the company continues to evolve by educating clients on the investment potential of fine jewelry.
"We recognize that investment-grade gemstones can function as a form of international currency," Molina explains. "That's why we offer specialized programs on acquiring fine diamonds and colored gemstones as long-term assets."
By blending historical prestige with contemporary investment strategies, Black, Starr & Frost remains a leader in the fine jewelry industry, proving that true craftsmanship and heritage can stand the test of time.
Black Starr & Gorham Cini Silver Moonstone Brooch - DSF Antique Jewelry
Famous Jewelry by Black, Starr & Frost
With a legacy spanning over two centuries, Black, Starr & Frost has crafted and sold some of the most extraordinary pieces in jewelry history.
Here are some of the most famous jewels associated with this legendary house:
1. The Portugal Diamond
The Portugal Diamond is an awe-inspiring 127.01-carat, cushion-cut diamond celebrated for its exceptional clarity, brilliance, and faint yellow hue.
As one of the largest and most famous diamonds discovered in Brazil—a country renowned for its fine diamonds—this extraordinary gem has captivated collectors and historians alike.
Black, Starr & Frost played a significant role in the diamond’s journey. As one of America’s most prestigious jewelers, the firm once owned the Portugal Diamond, showcasing its unmatched beauty to the world. Despite its name, there is no confirmed historical connection between the gem and Portugal.
The diamond passed through several notable owners before being acquired by legendary jeweler Harry Winston, who later sold it to the Smithsonian Institution in 1963. Today, the Portugal Diamond remains a star attraction at the Smithsonian’s National Museum of Natural History, mesmerizing visitors with its radiant brilliance.
2. The Star of Bombay Sapphire
The Star of Bombay is a breathtaking 182-carat, cabochon-cut star sapphire, known for its deep, velvety blue hue and striking asterism—a phenomenon where a star-like pattern appears on its surface when exposed to light.
This rare gemstone was sourced from the legendary sapphire mines of Sri Lanka (formerly Ceylon), a region famous for producing some of the world’s finest sapphires. Black, Starr & Frost acquired and set the Star of Bombay into an elegant platinum ring, cementing its status as one of the world’s most remarkable star sapphires.
The gemstone gained widespread fame when silent film icon Douglas Fairbanks gifted it to his wife, Mary Pickford, one of Hollywood’s earliest superstars. Pickford treasured the sapphire throughout her life, and after her passing in 1979, the Star of Bombay was donated to the Smithsonian Institution, where it remains a centerpiece of the museum’s esteemed gem collection.
Beyond its legacy in fine jewelry, the Star of Bombay also left a mark on popular culture. It is widely believed to have inspired the name of the Bombay Sapphire gin brand, further embedding its significance beyond the world of gemstones.
3. The Maximilian Emerald Ring
The Maximilian Emerald Ring is a breathtaking piece featuring a 21.04-carat, cushion-cut Colombian emerald set in platinum and adorned with diamonds. This emerald is celebrated for its intense deep green color and remarkable clarity, making it one of the finest examples of its kind.
The ring is named after Emperor Maximilian I of Mexico, who is believed to have once owned the emerald during his brief reign from 1864 to 1867. After his execution, many of his prized possessions, including this exceptional emerald, were dispersed among collectors and nobility.
Black, Starr & Frost later acquired the emerald and set it into a striking ring, elevating its beauty with a refined platinum and diamond design. The firm’s craftsmanship preserved the stone’s regal elegance while enhancing its significance in the world of high jewelry.
The Maximilian Emerald Ring was eventually purchased by Marjorie Merriweather Post, the American heiress and philanthropist renowned for her remarkable jewelry collection. Recognizing its historical and artistic value, Post added the piece to her collection of rare gemstones.
Today, the Maximilian Emerald Ring is housed in the Smithsonian Institution, where it remains one of the most admired emeralds in the world.
4. The Hope Spinel
The Hope Spinel is an extraordinary 50.13-carat, octagonal-cut spinel with a captivating pinkish-red hue, exceptional clarity, and brilliance. Often mistaken for a ruby due to its deep, rich color, this gemstone is among the most famous spinels in history.
Originally part of the legendary Hope Collection, which also included the infamous Hope Diamond, the Hope Spinel is believed to have been sourced from the famed Badakhshan mines in present-day Afghanistan. These mines have produced some of the world’s most remarkable spinels, treasured for centuries by royalty and collectors alike.
Black, Starr & Frost played a significant role in the gem's history, handling and selling the stone as part of its esteemed collection of rare and exceptional jewels.
In 2015, the Hope Spinel was auctioned at Bonhams, achieving a record-breaking price of £962,500 ($1.4 million)—nearly six times its estimated value. This historic sale underscored the increasing appreciation for spinels as investment-grade gemstones.
Today, the Hope Spinel remains one of the most celebrated spinels in the world, its legacy tied to both the historic Hope Collection and the Black, Starr & Frost brand.
5. The Crawford Pink Diamond
The Crawford Pink Diamond is an extraordinary pink diamond known for its vibrant hue, exceptional clarity, and brilliance.
While its exact carat weight remains undisclosed, it is regarded as one of the finest pink diamonds ever handled by a prestigious jeweler.
Black, Starr & Frost, renowned for dealing in rare and investment-grade gemstones, acquired, showcased, and ultimately sold the Crawford Pink Diamond to an elite clientele.
6. The Emerald and Diamond Necklace for Evalyn Walsh McLean
This exquisite emerald and diamond necklace was one of the many exceptional pieces owned by Evalyn Walsh McLean, an American socialite and heiress famous for her extravagant jewelry collection.
Featuring exceptional Colombian emeralds and brilliant diamonds, the necklace was arranged in an opulent yet refined design, reflecting McLean’s love for rare and magnificent gemstones.
Though she is best known for owning the Hope Diamond, McLean also had an impressive collection of Colombian emeralds, many of which were sourced through Black, Starr & Frost.
As one of America's most prestigious jewelry houses, Black, Starr & Frost played a pivotal role in curating and crafting some of McLean's most exquisite pieces, including this emerald and diamond necklace.
7. The Duchess of Windsor's Jewelry
Wallis Simpson, the Duchess of Windsor, was one of the most fashion-forward and jewelry-obsessed women of the 20th century. Her collection, a symbol of her unconventional love story with King Edward VIII, featured some of the most unique and avant-garde designs ever created.
Among the many prestigious jewelers who contributed to her collection, Black, Starr & Frost played a significant role in shaping her distinct style. The firm was known for crafting bold, sophisticated pieces that matched the Duchess’s refined yet daring taste.
One of the most famous pieces attributed to Black, Starr & Frost in her collection is the diamond and sapphire panther bracelet, a striking design that exemplified her affinity for feline-inspired jewelry. This bracelet, featuring an articulated panther encrusted with diamonds and sapphires, reflected the Art Deco elegance that defined her jewelry collection.
Black, Starr & Frost - A legend
For more than two centuries, Black, Starr & Frost has been a symbol of sophistication, artistry, and luxury, standing as one of America’s most storied jewelers.
While it may not command the same widespread modern recognition as some of its contemporaries, its legacy remains unparalleled. From crafting exquisite pieces for America’s elite to playing a pivotal role in global jewelry exhibitions, the firm has shaped industry trends and set standards of excellence.
As it continues its journey, Black, Starr & Frost remains a beacon of American luxury, carrying forward a tradition of extraordinary craftsmanship, rare gemstones, and timeless elegance. Its enduring influence ensures that its name will forever be etched in the annals of jewelry history.
