Special Auction in Geneva Featuring Rare Watches from the 1970s and 1980s
Phillips, in partnership with Bacs & Russo, will host a highly anticipated auction on November 8, 2024, titled "Reloaded: The Rebirth of Mechanical Watchmaking 1980-1999."
This exclusive event, dedicated to neo-vintage watches, will be held at the Hotel President (formerly known as Hotel President Wilson) in Geneva, Switzerland, according to Forbes.
“With the advent of quartz watches, mechanical timepieces faced a pivotal moment—adapt or perish—but the watchmaking industry proved its resilience and ingenuity,” remarked Alexandre Ghotbi, Phillips' Head of Watches for Europe and the Middle East, and Tiffany To, Head of Sale, in a joint statement.
They noted that the 1980s and 1990s were among the most innovative eras in watchmaking, marked by the rise of independent watchmakers, the creation of multi-complication wristwatches, and the development of revolutionary movements. This period laid the groundwork for the luxury, precision, and craftsmanship that defines the industry today.
During these decades, watchmaking faced challenges posed by the rise of quartz technology, which threatened traditional Swiss watchmaking. In response, the industry doubled down on mechanical mastery—a trend that has endured, as Ghotbi explained.
Highlights from the Auction
Several exceptional watches will be up for auction during the Geneva event, including:
Philippe Dufour Duality
Initially, it was believed that only nine examples of this groundbreaking watch existed. However, a tenth piece—specially crafted for a private collector—has now surfaced.
This rare timepiece features a fully brushed platinum case, a dark gray dial accented with pink-gold indexes and hands, and a movement free of inscriptions. A certificate of origin confirms its authenticity.
First released in 1996, the Duality was revolutionary for being the first wristwatch to feature a dual escapement system, with two separate balance wheels linked by a central differential gear to enhance precision. Though Dufour initially planned to make 25 units, only nine were thought to have been completed due to the complexity of the design. This recently discovered 10th piece is expected to fetch between $885,000 and $1.7 million.
Oval Pocket Watch by Derek Pratt for Urban Jürgensen
Crafted by master watchmaker Derek Pratt, technical director at Urban Jürgensen & Sønner, this watch is distinguished by its oval shape and intricate craftsmanship, created with help from Kari Voutilainen.
Produced between 1983 and 2005, this model features a brushed platinum case, a hand-finished movement signed "Urban Jürgensen" and "Invenit et Fecit," and an advanced flying tourbillon with a remontoir and detent escapement, ensuring consistent power and precise timekeeping.
Making its auction debut, this remarkable piece is estimated to exceed $1.1 million.
DEREK PRATT Oval Pocket Watch Made for Urban Jürgensen (www.phillips.com)
Tourbillon Souverain à Remontoir d'Egalité 15/93 by François-Paul Journe
This model, the first ever sold by François-Paul Journe, marks the origin of the renowned F.P. Journe brand and holds a special place in horological history.
Part of a 20-piece subscription series launched in 1999, the Tourbillon Souverain traces its lineage to 1993, a period when Journe was crafting bespoke watches for a select group of collectors. This particular watch is the second ever created by Journe and the first he sold.
Featuring hallmark Journe elements such as a gold movement, a raw dial with visible features like the cone-and-feeler power reserve indicator at 11 o’clock, and a solid caseback, this piece is unique. It was also featured on the cover of Jean-Pierre Grosz’s book "Invenit et Fecit." Only three examples were entirely handmade by Journe, and the dial is hand-engraved with inked inscriptions. Numbered "15/93," it represents the 15th timepiece created by Journe in 1993.
This extraordinary watch, accompanied by its original technical drawings, articles, and invoice, has an estimated value exceeding $2.2 million.
F.P. JOURNE The Tourbillon Souverain à Remontoir d’Egalité 15/93 (www.phillips.com)
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 'Rainbow'
A rare and highly sought-after timepiece, the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 'Rainbow' ref. 16599 hails from the 1990s and stands as one of the first of its kind by Rolex, crafted in white gold.
Making its auction debut after decades in a private collection, this watch is distinguished by a bezel adorned with sapphires arranged in a rainbow gradient, transitioning from deep red to purple—a hallmark of Rolex’s exceptional craftsmanship.
Described as “one of the most exclusive Rolex timepieces,” this unique model was the precursor to the “Rainbow” Daytona series introduced by Rolex almost two decades later. It is expected to achieve a price of over $3.3 million at auction.
ROLEX The First-Ever ‘Rainbow’ Daytona Ref. 16599 (www.phillips.com)
Upcoming Events
The watches are currently on display at Geneva Watch Days until September 2, after which they will embark on an international tour to New York, Dubai, Singapore, London, and Hong Kong, before returning to Geneva for the November 8 auction.
For further details on "Reloaded: The Rebirth of Mechanical Watchmaking, 1980-1999," visit Phillips.com.
