Black, Starr & Frost: America's Oldest Jewelry House
When it comes to luxury jewelry and the legacy of American sophistication, one name stands above the rest: Black, Starr & Frost.
Established in 1810, it is the oldest jewelry house in the United States, with a heritage that spans more than two centuries. Since its founding, Black, Starr & Frost has stood as a symbol of refinement, masterful craftsmanship, and enduring quality in the world of fine jewelry.
The House boasts a remarkable legacy, not only through its historic roots but also through its international presence and recognition at major world exhibitions, earning acclaim through numerous prestigious awards.
Black Starr & Frost Antique Edwardian Platinum Pearl Diamond Pendant Watch - DSF Antique Jewelry
Black Starr & Gorham Cini Silver Moonstone Brooch - DSF Antique Jewelry
Black, Starr & Frost - Highlights of Excellence
Participation in International Exhibitions
In 1851, at the renowned Crystal Palace Exhibition in London, Black, Starr & Frost exhibited a four-piece pure gold tea service—an impressive showcase of the company’s innovation and exceptional craftsmanship.
In 1939, the House was one of only five jewelers invited to participate in the New York World’s Fair, where it presented two extraordinary jeweled mystery clocks, including the world’s only square-faced mystery clock and the intricate “Tree of the Knowledge of Good and Evil” clock.
Honoring Valor Through Design
In 1863, Black, Starr & Frost created the Gillmore Medal, one of the earliest battlefield commendations awarded to soldiers who fought at the Battle of Fort Sumter. This historic piece later inspired the creation of the first Congressional Medal of Honor.
That same year, the House designed the Kearny Cross, another distinguished military honor awarded for acts of bravery, further cementing the firm’s reputation for excellence in symbolic and ceremonial design.
Iconic Trophies and Sporting Legacy
In 1915, Black, Starr & Frost created the Astor Cup, a trophy offered at prestigious automobile races—demonstrating the brand’s versatility in crafting luxury items beyond jewelry.
Later, in 1921, the House designed and produced the Davis Cup Silver Plate on behalf of the US Lawn Tennis Association, underscoring its ongoing relationship with elite sports events and its mastery in creating commemorative objects.
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Black Starr & Frost Antique Edwardian Platinum Pearl Diamond Pendant Watch - DSF Antique Jewelry
Legendary Beginnings and Evolution
Starr & Frost was founded in New York City by Isaac Marquand, a visionary jeweler whose designs quickly attracted the admiration of America’s elite. The company soon became a leading supplier of fine jewelry, watches, and silverware to influential figures of the time.
In 1860, Marquand partnered with Frederick Starr, giving rise to the name the company proudly carries today.
Over the decades, Starr & Frost has created numerous remarkable pieces, including custom commissions for U.S. presidents, foreign diplomats, and members of international aristocracy.
Beyond fine jewelry, the House also earned recognition for its exquisite work in luxury silverware and decorative arts, reflecting a dedication to artistry and elegance that has defined its identity since inception.
Antique Black Starr & Frost Sterling 8 Days Clock - DSF Antique Jewelry
Emblematic Jewelry and Distinctive Features
Black, Starr & Frost is a name synonymous with tradition, classic elegance, and enduring value. The House’s creations are distinguished by several hallmark features:
- Rare and flawless gemstones – All diamonds and colored stones are hand-selected to meet the most stringent standards of clarity, color, and brilliance.
- Classic design – Rather than following fleeting trends, Black, Starr & Frost upholds a refined aesthetic rooted in heritage and permanence.
- Masterful craftsmanship – Every piece is crafted by highly skilled master jewelers, continuing the brand’s long-standing tradition of excellence.
- Silverware and decorative objects – Beyond fine jewelry, the House is also celebrated for its exquisite silver creations, ranging from luxurious flatware to decorative items crafted for royal families and noble households.
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Signature Collections: The Chairman’s Collection
At the pinnacle of the brand’s offerings stands the Chairman’s Collection—a line of exceptional, one-of-a-kind jewelry created under the vision of Alfredo J. Molina, Chairman of Black, Starr & Frost and one of the world’s leading gemologists.
This exclusive collection represents the ultimate expression of luxury and artistry. Each piece is individually crafted using:
- Precious metals – 18K gold and platinum, ensuring long-lasting beauty and a flawless finish.
- Rare gemstones – Including Burmese dove-colored blue sapphires, Colombian emeralds, and rubies of certified origin.
- Unheated natural stones – Many of the gemstones are untreated, preserving their natural beauty and intrinsic value.
Techniques and Craftsmanship
- Custom design – Every piece is tailored to highlight the unique character of its center stone.
- Exceptional craftsmanship – Experienced artisans execute each design with precision, passion, and a commitment to perfection.
- Extended lead time – The creation process can span several months, reflecting the level of detail and quality involved.
‘The Empress’ Necklace
One of the most iconic creations in the Chairman’s Collection is The Empress Necklace—a majestic, one-of-a-kind masterpiece fit for royalty. It features:
- 30 Burmese blue sapphires totaling 11.9 carats
- 34 oval diamonds totaling 10.56 carats
- 404 round brilliant-cut diamonds totaling 82.61 carats
Altogether, the necklace brings together 438 diamonds and 30 rare sapphires, and required over 1,500 hours of meticulous handwork to complete. Its estimated value stands at USD 4.5 million.
Exclusivity and Prestige
Access to the Chairman’s Collection is strictly limited, underscoring its rarity and prestige:
- Private consultations – Viewings are available by appointment only, offering a personalized and discreet experience.
- Elite clientele – Pieces are reserved for collectors, celebrities, and royalty, with each item crafted as a statement of unmatched luxury.
Other pieces from the collection also feature exceptional gemstones such as cornflower blue Burmese sapphires, top-grade D and E color diamonds with VVS–VS clarity, all set in platinum or 18K gold—further testaments to the House’s commitment to excellence.
The Classics Collection
The Classics Collection from Black, Starr & Frost embodies the essence of timeless elegance and sophisticated luxury. Designed to provide women with foundational, high-quality pieces, this collection offers versatile jewelry that complements any refined wardrobe.
Collection Highlights
This curated selection features five iconic pieces, considered indispensable in any woman’s jewelry collection:
- Opera-Length Diamond Necklace – A striking strand composed of 215 diamonds, totaling 53.58 carats, set in 18K white gold. This piece can be worn as a single long necklace or doubled for a classic layered look.
- Diamond Stud Earrings – Available in four sophisticated variations, including the “Ultimate Stud”—featuring a 3-carat center diamond surrounded by a pavé halo. Prices for these elegant earrings start at $7,500.
- Tennis Bracelet – A timeless bracelet with diamonds set in 18K gold, ideal for adding brilliance and refinement to any ensemble.
- Pearl Necklace – An elegant strand of lustrous pearls, long associated with femininity and sophistication.
- Hoop Earrings – Playful yet elegant, these versatile earrings effortlessly transition from daytime chic to evening glamour.
Materials and Craftsmanship
Each piece in The Classics Collection is handcrafted with exceptional attention to detail using only the finest materials:
- Precious Metals – 18K gold and platinum, chosen for their durability and luxurious finish.
- Gemstones – Top-quality diamonds ranging from 0.33 to 53.58 carats, meticulously selected for brilliance and clarity.
- Artisanal Craftsmanship – Each item is created by master jewelers with decades of experience, ensuring flawless execution and superior durability.
Versatility and Appeal
Designed for both formal occasions and everyday elegance, the pieces in this collection are meant to be worn, cherished, and passed down through generations. Their timeless design guarantees not only enduring beauty but also continued relevance and emotional value across decades.
Everyday Luxury Collection: Modern Elegance for Daily Wear
The Everyday Luxury Collection offers refined jewelry pieces designed for effortless daily wear—without compromising on elegance or sophistication. This line includes rings, bracelets, and earrings, all intended to be worn in sets of three for a coordinated and contemporary look.
Among the highlights are:
- Diamond earrings in four distinct styles, adaptable to any occasion—from casual to formal.
Materials
- Gold options – Available in yellow, white, and rose gold, providing versatility in tone and style.
- Diamonds – Carefully selected for their brilliance, enhancing the understated luxury of each piece.
This collection is ideal for those who seek beauty and grace in everyday moments, combining modern design with the heritage craftsmanship of Black, Starr & Frost.
The Bridal Collection: A Celebration of Eternal Love
The Bridal Collection by Black, Starr & Frost is a refined expression of everlasting love, where timeless tradition meets modern sophistication. Designed to mark life’s most cherished milestones—engagement and marriage—this collection is characterized by elegance, symbolism, and exceptional craftsmanship.
Key Features of the Bridal Collection
Each ring in the collection tells a story, carefully designed to embody the deep emotional significance of a lifelong union:
- Three-Stone Ring – Representing a couple’s past, present, and future, this design features three impeccably matched diamonds, set in classic platinum or 18K gold. The proportions and clarity of each stone are meticulously balanced for harmony and brilliance.
- Eternity Band – A symbol of infinite love, this band features identical diamonds arranged in a continuous circle, each set with precision to create seamless sparkle and symmetry.
- Halo Ring – Embodying the center of love, the halo ring showcases a central diamond surrounded by a luminous circle of pavé-set diamonds, offering a spectacular visual impact and maximum radiance.
Materials and Craftsmanship
Crafted with exceptional attention to detail, each piece in the Bridal Collection is handcrafted using the finest materials:
- Metals – Available in 18K white, yellow, or rose gold, as well as platinum.
- Gemstones – High-quality diamonds graded VVS to VS clarity and D to F color, selected for their brilliance and purity.
Distinctive Elements
- Timeless with a modern touch – The designs are classic yet contemporary, ideal for modern brides who appreciate heritage and style.
- Personalized to perfection – Full customization options allow each couple to reflect their personal story and aesthetic preferences.
- Gemological excellence – In-house gemologists ensure an exclusive selection of ethically sourced, exceptional stones. This collection represents not only beauty but meaning—each ring a lasting emblem of a couple’s unique journey together.
The Monogram Collection: A Heritage Reimagined
The Monogram Collection celebrates the rich history and visual identity of Black, Starr & Frost by reinterpreting its iconic monogram in a modern, wearable form.
A Storied Symbol
The original BSF monogram first appeared in 1860, emblazoned on the company’s horse-drawn carriages—an early sign of prestige that marked the beginning of the famed “carriage trade”, an elite market defined by exclusivity and luxury.
Contemporary Design
The jewelry in this collection incorporates the intertwined initials BSF in a graceful, calligraphic style. These elegant forms blend historical heritage with a playful modern spirit, transforming a once-symbolic logo into a statement of personal style.
Materials and Personalization
- Crafted in gold or platinum, each piece can be further customized with initials, symbols, or engraved elements, making it truly unique.
- Designed to reflect the wearer’s identity, this collection offers a balance of tradition and individuality—perfect for those who value both legacy and self-expression.
The Monogram Collection reaffirms Black, Starr & Frost’s position as a house where heritage and modern elegance meet—where history becomes wearable art.
The Timepieces Collection: A Return to Horological Artistry
The Timepieces Collection marks the triumphant return of Black, Starr & Frost to the world of fine watchmaking—introducing the first new models launched by the house in over three decades. This collection blends historic inspiration with contemporary craftsmanship, reaffirming the brand’s versatility and excellence.
One of the standout pieces is a Fabergé-style desk clock, designed in the shape of an egg and crafted from silver, enamel, and agate. Created in the Art Deco style circa 1930, this object exemplifies the house's dedication to artistry and detail.
Key Features
- Luxury materials – Precious metals, enamel, agate, and semi-precious stones.
- Refined innovation – The collection introduces the first dress-style chronograph with hidden pushers, fusing timeless aesthetics with modern functionality.
- Mechanical excellence – Each timepiece is powered by a modified Valjoux 7750 Swiss automatic movement, featuring 25 jewels for enhanced precision and durability.
- Elegant details – Housed in a 42 mm case, the watches feature hand-applied markers, a hand-painted dial, and blue feuille hands—a testament to meticulous craftsmanship.
Strap options include black and chocolate brown alligator leather, as well as calfskin straps with red or blue contrast stitching, allowing for elegant customization.
Exclusivity
Limited to just 25 pieces, the Timepieces Collection offers discerning collectors a rare opportunity to own a distinctive chapter in American horological history—where artistry meets innovation in wearable form.
Black Starr & Frost Gorham Antique Platinum Jade Pocket Watch - DSF Antique Jewelry
Legacy, Influence & Renown
Throughout its illustrious history, Black, Starr & Frost has served an extraordinary clientele, including historic figures such as Abraham Lincoln, Ulysses S. Grant, and J.P. Morgan.
The house has designed and crafted bespoke pieces for numerous American diplomats, financial elites, and even the White House itself—contributing to the design of prestigious awards, military medals, and national trophies.
After more than two centuries of continuous innovation and excellence, Black, Starr & Frost remains a leader in the fine jewelry world. Today, the house seamlessly combines traditional techniques with contemporary design, ensuring each collection resonates with both heritage and modern elegance.
Beyond its iconic jewelry, the house also offers:
- Custom gemstone sourcing and design
- Professional restoration and repair
- Appraisal services for heirloom and high-value pieces
These services ensure that every creation continues to shine—both in value and in beauty—across generations.
The Evolution of a Name: From Marquand & Co. to Black, Starr & Frost
The prestigious legacy of Black, Starr & Frost is also reflected in the evolution of its name—a journey through American history and craftsmanship:
1810 – Marquand & Co.
Founded by Isaac Marquand in New York, the company was one of America's first luxury workshops specializing in fine silver and jewelry.
1830 – Ball, Tompkins & Black
The company became a joint venture with new partners, including Ebenezer Monroe Black, whose name would become central to the brand’s identity.
1851 – Ball, Black & Co.
As other partners departed, the firm emerged as a major name in American jewelry, setting new standards of excellence.
1876 – Black, Starr & Frost
Through a merger with the rival firm Frost & Co., the brand assumed the iconic name that continues to represent timeless elegance and innovation.
1929 – Black, Starr & Frost-Gorham
The brand was acquired by Gorham Manufacturing Company, a leader in American silversmithing, resulting in a longer name that reflected the expanded heritage.
Recent Times – Starr & Frost
In the 21st century, the company has occasionally used the simplified form Starr & Frost in digital marketing and select collections, though the official name remains Black, Starr & Frost.
What Does That Mean in Practice?
Today, Black, Starr & Frost is the full, traditional name used for official branding, including on the website and in exclusive product lines.
The name Starr & Frost functions as a modernized abbreviation for stylistic or marketing purposes, but it does not denote a separate entity. Both forms evoke the same legacy of luxury, refinement, and artisanal mastery.
A Golden History and a Bright Future
More than just a jewelry brand, Black, Starr & Frost is an enduring symbol of American elegance and excellence.
For over two centuries, its artisans have crafted extraordinary pieces that blend traditional techniques with modern vision, maintaining the House’s position at the pinnacle of fine jewelry.
As it has been since 1810, Black, Starr & Frost remains a beacon of timeless luxury, exquisite design, and lasting heritage.
