Belle Époque Unheated Burma Sapphire and Diamond Hat Pin
Edwardian No Heat Burma Sapphire and Diamond Hat Pin in 18K Gold and Platinum
Graceful, rare, and exquisitely composed, this Edwardian hat pin is a striking example of Belle Époque elegance. The long pin is crafted in 18K gold, while the beautifully formed pansy flower top is fashioned in platinum, creating a refined contrast between warmth and brilliance. This elegant floral jewel is set with natural unheated Burma sapphires totaling approximately 3.80 carats, cut as fancy cabochons and prized for their fine blue color, vivid saturation, and medium tone. Their luminous surface and richly saturated color give the piece an unmistakable presence.
The flower is further enhanced by 10 old mine natural diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.20 carats. Described as G color and VS clarity, with very good polish and very good symmetry, these antique diamonds add a lively yet soft brilliance that beautifully complements the smooth, glowing sapphires. The combination of unheated Burma sapphires, old mine diamonds, and refined Edwardian workmanship gives this hat pin exceptional character and strong collector appeal.
Adding to its desirability, the jewel bears the French Eagle head hallmark, along with serial numbers present on the piece. The pin measures approximately 5.5 inches in length, while the pansy flower top measures approximately 0.7 x 0.7 inches. Delicate in appearance yet rich in detail, this antique sapphire and diamond hat pin is a rare jewel of strong visual impact, historical charm, and enduring elegance.
Collector’s Note
Jewels featuring genuine unheated Burma sapphires have long been sought after by collectors, especially when paired with old mine cut diamonds, fine period workmanship, and French hallmarks. This example is particularly appealing for its elegant construction, with an 18K gold pin supporting a platinum pansy flower top, making it a distinctive and highly collectible piece for lovers of Edwardian jewelry and rare antique gemstone jewels.
Details
• Period: Edwardian / Belle Époque.
• Type: Hat Pin.
• Metal: 18K Gold Pin / Platinum Flower Top.
• Motif: Pansy Flower.
• Gemstone: Natural Unheated Burma Sapphires.
• Sapphire Weight: Approximately 3.80 carats.
• Sapphire Cut: Fancy Cabochon.
• Sapphire Color: Fine Blue.
• Saturation / Tone: Vivid / Medium.
• Diamonds: 10 Old Mine Natural Diamonds.
• Total Diamond Weight: Approximately 1.20 carats.
• Diamond Color: G.
• Diamond Clarity: VS.
• Weight: 6.9 grams.
• Hallmarks: French Eagle head hallmark.
• Serial Number: Present on the piece.
• Overall Length: Approx. 5.5 inches.
• Flower Top Measurements: Approx. 0.7 x 0.7 inches.
Why This Piece Is Special
• Set with natural unheated Burma sapphires.
• Accented by 10 old mine natural diamonds.
• Designed with an 18K gold pin and platinum pansy flower top.
• Bears a French Eagle head hallmark.
• Showcases elegant Edwardian floral design.
• Rare and highly collectible antique jewel.
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The DSF Promise
Buy with confidence. Every piece is backed by:
• Authenticity — examined and verified before listing
• Condition — carefully inspected and honestly described
• Insured shipping — fully insured, signature required
• 32-day returns — available on eligible, unaltered items
• Private appointments — available in New York
• Experience — over 50 years of fine jewelry expertise
How do I know a piece is authentic, and can I trust DSF?
Buying fine jewelry online takes trust, especially at this level. DSF Antique Jewelry is a New York–based dealer with over 50 years of fine jewelry expertise. Every piece is examined for authenticity and condition before it is listed — we assess hallmarks, maker's marks, metal content, gemstones, and construction consistent with the stated period or designer. For signed pieces such as Cartier, Buccellati, or Van Cleef & Arpels, we verify maker's marks and signatures. We're glad to send additional photographs of any hallmark, or speak with you directly, before you decide.
Why does antique gold look different, and is surface wear normal?
Antique pieces were often made in gold standards less common today, such as 15ct (used in Britain only between 1854 and 1932), 9ct, or higher-karat continental gold, which give a warmer tone than typical modern 14k. Light surface wear, softened edges, and a gentle patina are normal and expected on antique jewelry — they reflect the age and authenticity of the piece, not flaws. We describe the true condition of every item honestly in its listing.
What do the hallmarks and maker's marks mean?
Hallmarks are small stamped marks that identify the metal standard, and often the maker, assay office, and date. They are one of the best tools for authenticating antique jewelry. We identify and explain the marks we find on each piece in its description, and we're happy to send close-up photographs of any hallmark on request so you can see exactly what you're buying.
Can pieces be resized or adjusted?
It depends on the piece. Many antique rings can be resized, but bands with all-around engraving, thin shanks, or gemstones near the base may be limited in how far they can safely go, and some pieces are best left as-is to preserve their integrity. We list each item's measurements as they currently are. If you're unsure whether something can be safely adjusted, contact us before buying and we'll give you an honest assessment for that specific piece.
How should I care for and store fine jewelry?
Clean gently with a soft cloth, avoid harsh chemicals, ultrasonic cleaners, and chlorine, and store pieces separately so they don't scratch one another. Remove rings and bracelets for heavy manual tasks. Antique gold is softer than modern alloys, so period pieces are best enjoyed with normal care. Treated well, fine antique jewelry lasts for generations — many of our pieces are already a century or more old and still beautiful.
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