Carl F. Bucherer 18K Gold Sapphire and Diamond Rickshaw Brooch Watch
Rare 1950s Carl F. Bucherer Figural Brooch Watch in 18K Gold Set with Sapphires and Diamonds
An exceptional example of mid-century Swiss jewelry and watchmaking, this rare Carl F. Bucherer 18K gold brooch watch, dating to circa 1950s, combines imaginative design with meticulous craftsmanship. The jewel depicts a finely modeled figure pulling a Chinese rickshaw, with a miniature mechanical watch ingeniously incorporated into its large, sapphire-set wheel.
Crafted in 18K yellow gold, the elaborate openwork wheel is set with twelve rectangular baguette-cut blue sapphires surrounding a circular watch dial. The silver-toned dial features applied gold Arabic numerals and gold hands, signed Bucherer, 17 Jewels, Swiss Made.
The rickshaw figure is beautifully detailed, wearing a flowing gold tunic set with four diamonds and an elaborate fan-shaped hat. The carefully modeled legs, footwear, and extending rickshaw handles contribute to the sense of movement and character. A smaller spoked wheel incorporates an additional diamond at its center.
The reverse bears the CB 750 maker's mark on the gold figure, together with additional gold purity and Swiss case markings. The brooch is fitted with a horizontal pin closure.
Measuring approximately 2 inches across by 1.4 inches high and weighing 19.5 grams, this unusual jewel is an appealing example of Bucherer's imaginative approach to combining fine jewelry with miniature Swiss watchmaking.
Key Features
- Maker: Carl F. Bucherer, Switzerland
- Period: Circa 1950s
- Metal: 18K yellow gold
- Gemstones: Twelve baguette-cut blue sapphires and five diamonds
- Design: Figural Chinese rickshaw with an integrated mechanical watch and openwork sapphire-set wheel
- Watch: Swiss mechanical movement, dial marked 17 Jewels
- Signature: Bucherer on the dial; CB 750 maker's mark on the figure
- Measurements: Approximately 2 inches wide × 1.4 inches high
- Weight: 19.5 grams
- Closure: Brooch pin fitting
- Condition: Excellent estate condition. Timekeeping accuracy has not been tested.
Collector's Note
Among the more imaginative creations associated with Bucherer, these elaborate figural brooch watches occupy a distinctive place in mid-century jewelry design. The rickshaw motif, combining finely crafted 18K gold, sapphires, diamonds, and an integrated Swiss mechanical watch, is particularly unusual and seldom encountered.
For collectors of rare signed jewelry, this is an opportunity to acquire a piece that goes well beyond traditional jewelry or watchmaking. Its distinctive character, craftsmanship, and historical appeal make it the kind of jewel that is not easily replaced. Finding another comparable example may prove difficult.
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How do I know a piece is authentic, and can I trust DSF?
Buying fine jewelry online takes trust, especially at this level. DSF Antique Jewelry is a New York–based dealer with over 50 years of fine jewelry expertise. Every piece is examined for authenticity and condition before it is listed — we assess hallmarks, maker's marks, metal content, gemstones, and construction consistent with the stated period or designer. For signed pieces such as Cartier, Buccellati, or Van Cleef & Arpels, we verify maker's marks and signatures. We're glad to send additional photographs of any hallmark, or speak with you directly, before you decide.
Why does antique gold look different, and is surface wear normal?
Antique pieces were often made in gold standards less common today, such as 15ct (used in Britain only between 1854 and 1932), 9ct, or higher-karat continental gold, which give a warmer tone than typical modern 14k. Light surface wear, softened edges, and a gentle patina are normal and expected on antique jewelry — they reflect the age and authenticity of the piece, not flaws. We describe the true condition of every item honestly in its listing.
What do the hallmarks and maker's marks mean?
Hallmarks are small stamped marks that identify the metal standard, and often the maker, assay office, and date. They are one of the best tools for authenticating antique jewelry. We identify and explain the marks we find on each piece in its description, and we're happy to send close-up photographs of any hallmark on request so you can see exactly what you're buying.
Can pieces be resized or adjusted?
It depends on the piece. Many antique rings can be resized, but bands with all-around engraving, thin shanks, or gemstones near the base may be limited in how far they can safely go, and some pieces are best left as-is to preserve their integrity. We list each item's measurements as they currently are. If you're unsure whether something can be safely adjusted, contact us before buying and we'll give you an honest assessment for that specific piece.
How should I care for and store fine jewelry?
Clean gently with a soft cloth, avoid harsh chemicals, ultrasonic cleaners, and chlorine, and store pieces separately so they don't scratch one another. Remove rings and bracelets for heavy manual tasks. Antique gold is softer than modern alloys, so period pieces are best enjoyed with normal care. Treated well, fine antique jewelry lasts for generations — many of our pieces are already a century or more old and still beautiful.
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