Helen Ringus Ruby Sapphire Diamond 18K Gold Dolphin and Anchor Pendant-Brooch
On Museum Loan Until end of March
This jewel is presently on exhibition at The Bruce Museum, Greenwich, CT, and is not available for sale at this time.
Availability will be updated upon its return.
Helen Ringus Gemstone 18K Gold Dolphin Pendant-Brooch
An exceptional 18K yellow-gold nautical brooch and pendant by American designer Helen Ringus, depicting a gracefully arched dolphin entwined with an anchor. The sculptural composition evokes both strength and fluidity—hallmarks of Ringus’s craftsmanship.
The anchor is set with vibrant rubies and sapphires, while the dolphin’s eye sparkles with a brilliant marquise-cut diamond. At the top, a diamond-encrusted platinum loop allows the jewel to be worn as a pendant, transforming seamlessly from brooch to necklace.
A refined double-clip mechanism on the reverse ensures secure wear. The piece bears the designer’s hallmark “HR” and “18K”, authenticating it as an original work by Helen Ringus.
Details
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Designer: Helen Ringus
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Period: 1990s
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Material: 18K yellow gold, platinum
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Gemstones: Rubies (~5.35 ct), sapphires (~7.5 ct), marquise diamond (~0.06 ct)
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Dimensions: approx. 3.25 in × 1.15 in (8.25 × 2.9 cm)
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Signature: HR / 18K
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Function: Convertible pendant-brooch
A magnificent creation that embodies the ocean’s allure and the artistry of a master goldsmith.
Available now at DSF Antique Jewelry
About the Designer:
Helen Ringus is an American jeweler celebrated for her bold motifs and mastery of 18K gold. After establishing her studio in New York, she later opened Wearable Art in Sarasota, Florida, where her sculptural, gemstone-rich designs—like this dolphin and anchor brooch—earned acclaim among collectors.
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How do I know a piece is authentic, and can I trust DSF?
Buying fine jewelry online takes trust, especially at this level. DSF Antique Jewelry is a New York–based dealer with over 50 years of fine jewelry expertise. Every piece is examined for authenticity and condition before it is listed — we assess hallmarks, maker's marks, metal content, gemstones, and construction consistent with the stated period or designer. For signed pieces such as Cartier, Buccellati, or Van Cleef & Arpels, we verify maker's marks and signatures. We're glad to send additional photographs of any hallmark, or speak with you directly, before you decide.
Why does antique gold look different, and is surface wear normal?
Antique pieces were often made in gold standards less common today, such as 15ct (used in Britain only between 1854 and 1932), 9ct, or higher-karat continental gold, which give a warmer tone than typical modern 14k. Light surface wear, softened edges, and a gentle patina are normal and expected on antique jewelry — they reflect the age and authenticity of the piece, not flaws. We describe the true condition of every item honestly in its listing.
What do the hallmarks and maker's marks mean?
Hallmarks are small stamped marks that identify the metal standard, and often the maker, assay office, and date. They are one of the best tools for authenticating antique jewelry. We identify and explain the marks we find on each piece in its description, and we're happy to send close-up photographs of any hallmark on request so you can see exactly what you're buying.
Can pieces be resized or adjusted?
It depends on the piece. Many antique rings can be resized, but bands with all-around engraving, thin shanks, or gemstones near the base may be limited in how far they can safely go, and some pieces are best left as-is to preserve their integrity. We list each item's measurements as they currently are. If you're unsure whether something can be safely adjusted, contact us before buying and we'll give you an honest assessment for that specific piece.
How should I care for and store fine jewelry?
Clean gently with a soft cloth, avoid harsh chemicals, ultrasonic cleaners, and chlorine, and store pieces separately so they don't scratch one another. Remove rings and bracelets for heavy manual tasks. Antique gold is softer than modern alloys, so period pieces are best enjoyed with normal care. Treated well, fine antique jewelry lasts for generations — many of our pieces are already a century or more old and still beautiful.
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