Vintage Madame Grès Robert Goossens Tubogas Snake Necklace
Madame Grès Necklace
The Madame Grès Tubogas Snake Necklace is an iconic piece that further highlights her sophisticated and minimalist approach to design. Designed by Robert Goossens and reflecting her sculptural aesthetic, this necklace is one of the few jewelry creations attributed to Madame Grès, and like her gowns, it’s a rare and coveted treasure among collectors.
The term tubogas refers to a flexible, gas-pipe style of jewelry design that became popular in the early 20th century. It’s a technique in which tightly wound bands of metal—often gold or silver—are wrapped around a core, creating a flexible yet sturdy structure. The snake motif, often seen in tubogas designs, has long been a symbol of eternity, rebirth, and power in the world of jewelry. The pairing of this ancient symbol with the modern tubogas technique gives the necklace an added layer of historical and artistic depth.
In keeping with her reputation for clean lines and understated luxury, the Tubogas Snake Necklace by Madame Grès is not overtly flashy, yet it radiates a sense of bold elegance. The fluid, serpentine shape is a testament to the designer’s understanding of form, drawing on her background in sculpture. The necklace drapes smoothly around the neck, echoing the same type of controlled fluidity seen in her draped gowns.
This rare piece is a shining example of Madame Grès' ability to blend classical elements with modern techniques, resulting in a jewelry design that is both timeless and innovative. Given her relatively small output of jewelry, the Tubogas Snake Necklace is an exceedingly rare item, with few pieces appearing on the market. For collectors, it represents not just a beautiful necklace but a unique connection to one of the 20th century’s most revered fashion designers. Length is adjustable.
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How do I know a piece is authentic, and can I trust DSF?
Buying fine jewelry online takes trust, especially at this level. DSF Antique Jewelry is a New York–based dealer with over 50 years of fine jewelry expertise. Every piece is examined for authenticity and condition before it is listed — we assess hallmarks, maker's marks, metal content, gemstones, and construction consistent with the stated period or designer. For signed pieces such as Cartier, Buccellati, or Van Cleef & Arpels, we verify maker's marks and signatures. We're glad to send additional photographs of any hallmark, or speak with you directly, before you decide.
Why does antique gold look different, and is surface wear normal?
Antique pieces were often made in gold standards less common today, such as 15ct (used in Britain only between 1854 and 1932), 9ct, or higher-karat continental gold, which give a warmer tone than typical modern 14k. Light surface wear, softened edges, and a gentle patina are normal and expected on antique jewelry — they reflect the age and authenticity of the piece, not flaws. We describe the true condition of every item honestly in its listing.
What do the hallmarks and maker's marks mean?
Hallmarks are small stamped marks that identify the metal standard, and often the maker, assay office, and date. They are one of the best tools for authenticating antique jewelry. We identify and explain the marks we find on each piece in its description, and we're happy to send close-up photographs of any hallmark on request so you can see exactly what you're buying.
Can pieces be resized or adjusted?
It depends on the piece. Many antique rings can be resized, but bands with all-around engraving, thin shanks, or gemstones near the base may be limited in how far they can safely go, and some pieces are best left as-is to preserve their integrity. We list each item's measurements as they currently are. If you're unsure whether something can be safely adjusted, contact us before buying and we'll give you an honest assessment for that specific piece.
How should I care for and store fine jewelry?
Clean gently with a soft cloth, avoid harsh chemicals, ultrasonic cleaners, and chlorine, and store pieces separately so they don't scratch one another. Remove rings and bracelets for heavy manual tasks. Antique gold is softer than modern alloys, so period pieces are best enjoyed with normal care. Treated well, fine antique jewelry lasts for generations — many of our pieces are already a century or more old and still beautiful.
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