Rare Art Deco Gruen Precision Gold Rectangular Watch
A Distinctive Art Deco Gruen with a 17-Jewel Swiss Movement and Braided Leather Bracelet
An exceptional Art Deco Gruen wristwatch, distinguished by its architectural rectangular case, two-tone gold construction and unusual multi-strand braided leather bracelet.
The watch features a striking 14K two-tone gold case, combining a cool white-metal appearance with contrasting warm gold accents along the articulated lugs and fittings. Its strong geometric proportions, stepped construction and clean rectangular silhouette are characteristic of the refined design vocabulary associated with the Art Deco period.
The silver-tone dial is signed GRUEN PRECISION and displays stylized Arabic numerals, a detailed outer minute track and elegant gold-tone hands. A subsidiary seconds register at 6 o'clock adds another classic period detail. The dial retains attractive age-related patina, giving the watch an authentic vintage character rather than an overly restored appearance.
Inside, the mechanical movement is beautifully finished and extensively engraved. It is signed “Gruen Watch Co. Precision Extra,” “17 Jewels,” “Adjusted Temp.” and “Switzerland.” The movement's decorative engraving and visible ruby jewels make the interior nearly as attractive as the exterior and are particularly appealing from a collector's perspective.
The inside of the case is clearly stamped 14K and bears case number 200451. The movement is additionally numbered 650180.
A particularly distinctive feature is the bracelet. Rather than a conventional flat leather strap, the watch is fitted with a substantial multi-strand black braided leather bracelet, composed of tightly woven leather cords joined by contrasting gold-tone fittings. The bracelet gives the watch an unusually bold presence while complementing the geometric two-tone design of the case.
The watch is currently running and keeping time at the time of listing. As with all vintage mechanical watches, its long-term accuracy and service history cannot be guaranteed, and periodic servicing is recommended for regular use.
Key Features
- Maker: Gruen
- Model / Marking: Gruen Precision / Precision Extra
- Style: Art Deco
- Case: Rectangular two-tone gold case
- Metal: 14K gold, stamped inside the case
- Dial: Silver-tone dial with stylized Arabic numerals
- Seconds: Subsidiary seconds register at 6 o'clock
- Movement: Manual-wind mechanical movement
- Movement Signature: Gruen Watch Co. Precision Extra
- Jewels: 17 jewels
- Movement Markings: Adjusted Temp. / Switzerland
- Case Number: 200451
- Movement Number: 650180
- Bracelet: Multi-strand black braided leather bracelet
- Bracelet Details: Contrasting gold-tone fittings
- Function: Currently running and keeping time
- Condition: Very good estate condition with age-appropriate wear and patina
Condition
The watch presents beautifully overall, with surface wear and patina consistent with its age. The dial displays natural age-related toning and spotting, while the braided leather bracelet shows expected signs of wear. These characteristics contribute to the watch's authentic vintage appearance.
Currently running and keeping time at the time of listing. As with any vintage mechanical watch, performance may vary over time.
Email us or give us a call: (929) 316-2746. For our shipping and refund policy please see our terms & conditions.
The DSF Promise
Buy with confidence. Every piece is backed by:
• Authenticity — examined and verified before listing
• Condition — carefully inspected and honestly described
• Insured shipping — fully insured, signature required
• 32-day returns — available on eligible, unaltered items
• Private appointments — available in New York
• Experience — over 50 years of fine jewelry expertise
How do I know a piece is authentic, and can I trust DSF?
Buying fine jewelry online takes trust, especially at this level. DSF Antique Jewelry is a New York–based dealer with over 50 years of fine jewelry expertise. Every piece is examined for authenticity and condition before it is listed — we assess hallmarks, maker's marks, metal content, gemstones, and construction consistent with the stated period or designer. For signed pieces such as Cartier, Buccellati, or Van Cleef & Arpels, we verify maker's marks and signatures. We're glad to send additional photographs of any hallmark, or speak with you directly, before you decide.
Why does antique gold look different, and is surface wear normal?
Antique pieces were often made in gold standards less common today, such as 15ct (used in Britain only between 1854 and 1932), 9ct, or higher-karat continental gold, which give a warmer tone than typical modern 14k. Light surface wear, softened edges, and a gentle patina are normal and expected on antique jewelry — they reflect the age and authenticity of the piece, not flaws. We describe the true condition of every item honestly in its listing.
What do the hallmarks and maker's marks mean?
Hallmarks are small stamped marks that identify the metal standard, and often the maker, assay office, and date. They are one of the best tools for authenticating antique jewelry. We identify and explain the marks we find on each piece in its description, and we're happy to send close-up photographs of any hallmark on request so you can see exactly what you're buying.
Can pieces be resized or adjusted?
It depends on the piece. Many antique rings can be resized, but bands with all-around engraving, thin shanks, or gemstones near the base may be limited in how far they can safely go, and some pieces are best left as-is to preserve their integrity. We list each item's measurements as they currently are. If you're unsure whether something can be safely adjusted, contact us before buying and we'll give you an honest assessment for that specific piece.
How should I care for and store fine jewelry?
Clean gently with a soft cloth, avoid harsh chemicals, ultrasonic cleaners, and chlorine, and store pieces separately so they don't scratch one another. Remove rings and bracelets for heavy manual tasks. Antique gold is softer than modern alloys, so period pieces are best enjoyed with normal care. Treated well, fine antique jewelry lasts for generations — many of our pieces are already a century or more old and still beautiful.
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