Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin Retro Sapphire Diamond Gold Ring
A Bold 1940s Design by Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin with Cabochon Sapphires and Diamond-Set Ribbons
A remarkable signed Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin ring, created during the Retro period, circa 1940s. Executed in polished 14K yellow and white gold, its bold asymmetrical composition brings together richly colored blue sapphire cabochons and three sweeping, diamond-set ribbons.
A graduated succession of smooth sapphire cabochons travels across the ring, creating a striking contrast against the broad yellow-gold form. Three curving white-gold bands cross the center, each set with round diamonds that introduce light, definition, and architectural rhythm. The generous proportions and dynamic arrangement give the ring a noticeably different appearance from each viewing angle.
The collaboration between the American firm Trabert & Hoeffer and the Parisian house of Mauboussin produced some of the most inventive jewelry of the mid-20th century. This ring’s combination of cabochon gemstones, contrasting metals, expansive proportions, and flowing diamond-set elements is closely related to documented designs from the firm’s celebrated Reflection line, known for its expressive and highly individualized compositions.
The interior is signed T&HM and numbered 4338, identifying the ring with this important American-French jewelry partnership. Weighing 15 grams, the ring is currently a US size 5.5 and may be resized upon request.
Key Features
- Maker: Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin
- Period: Retro, circa 1940s
- Metal: 14K yellow and white gold
- Gemstones: Graduated blue sapphire cabochons
- Diamonds: Round diamonds set across three curving white-gold bands
- Design: Bold asymmetrical cocktail ring with sweeping ribbon and scroll elements
- Ring Size: US size 5.5
- Resizing: Available upon request
- Weight: 15 grams
- Markings: Signed T&HM and numbered 4338
- Condition: Excellent estate condition
Collector’s Note
Signed jewelry by Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin represents an important meeting of French jewelry heritage and American mid-century design. The unusual arrangement of cabochon sapphires, diamond-set ribbons, and expansive two-tone gold gives this ring a distinctive presence and makes it a compelling example of the firm’s innovative Retro-period work.
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How do I know a piece is authentic, and can I trust DSF?
Buying fine jewelry online takes trust, especially at this level. DSF Antique Jewelry is a New York–based dealer with over 50 years of fine jewelry expertise. Every piece is examined for authenticity and condition before it is listed — we assess hallmarks, maker's marks, metal content, gemstones, and construction consistent with the stated period or designer. For signed pieces such as Cartier, Buccellati, or Van Cleef & Arpels, we verify maker's marks and signatures. We're glad to send additional photographs of any hallmark, or speak with you directly, before you decide.
Why does antique gold look different, and is surface wear normal?
Antique pieces were often made in gold standards less common today, such as 15ct (used in Britain only between 1854 and 1932), 9ct, or higher-karat continental gold, which give a warmer tone than typical modern 14k. Light surface wear, softened edges, and a gentle patina are normal and expected on antique jewelry — they reflect the age and authenticity of the piece, not flaws. We describe the true condition of every item honestly in its listing.
What do the hallmarks and maker's marks mean?
Hallmarks are small stamped marks that identify the metal standard, and often the maker, assay office, and date. They are one of the best tools for authenticating antique jewelry. We identify and explain the marks we find on each piece in its description, and we're happy to send close-up photographs of any hallmark on request so you can see exactly what you're buying.
Can pieces be resized or adjusted?
It depends on the piece. Many antique rings can be resized, but bands with all-around engraving, thin shanks, or gemstones near the base may be limited in how far they can safely go, and some pieces are best left as-is to preserve their integrity. We list each item's measurements as they currently are. If you're unsure whether something can be safely adjusted, contact us before buying and we'll give you an honest assessment for that specific piece.
How should I care for and store fine jewelry?
Clean gently with a soft cloth, avoid harsh chemicals, ultrasonic cleaners, and chlorine, and store pieces separately so they don't scratch one another. Remove rings and bracelets for heavy manual tasks. Antique gold is softer than modern alloys, so period pieces are best enjoyed with normal care. Treated well, fine antique jewelry lasts for generations — many of our pieces are already a century or more old and still beautiful.
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