Vintage 1969 Coco Chanel Couture Gripoix Red Glass Lion Chain Necklace
Vintage 1969 Coco Chanel Couture Necklace.
This exceptional Chanel couture necklace from 1969 represents one of the most iconic and personal motifs ever created by Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel: the lion. A symbol of strength, protection, and destiny, the lion was Chanel’s astrological sign (Leo) and became one of the most powerful emblems in her jewelry and fashion designs during the final years of her career.
The necklace features a dramatic lion, suspended from bold chains, set with richly glowing red Gripoix poured glass. The deep crimson glass radiates warmth and intensity, evoking the look of precious rubies while retaining the distinctive organic depth that only true Gripoix can achieve. Length 34 inches.
Gripoix glass was hand-poured into molds in Paris and slowly cooled, producing cabochons with subtle texture, depth, and individuality. Chanel was one of the most important patrons of this technique, using it extensively in her couture jewelry to create pieces that were both opulent and expressive.
The 1969 lion collection marked a pivotal moment in Chanel’s design legacy. These jewels were not merely accessories — they were symbolic talismans, reflecting Chanel’s belief in personal destiny, strength, and timeless elegance. Today, authentic lion pieces from this collection are considered among the most collectible Chanel jewels ever created.
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How do I know a piece is authentic, and can I trust DSF?
Buying fine jewelry online takes trust, especially at this level. DSF Antique Jewelry is a New York–based dealer with over 50 years of fine jewelry expertise. Every piece is examined for authenticity and condition before it is listed — we assess hallmarks, maker's marks, metal content, gemstones, and construction consistent with the stated period or designer. For signed pieces such as Cartier, Buccellati, or Van Cleef & Arpels, we verify maker's marks and signatures. We're glad to send additional photographs of any hallmark, or speak with you directly, before you decide.
Why does antique gold look different, and is surface wear normal?
Antique pieces were often made in gold standards less common today, such as 15ct (used in Britain only between 1854 and 1932), 9ct, or higher-karat continental gold, which give a warmer tone than typical modern 14k. Light surface wear, softened edges, and a gentle patina are normal and expected on antique jewelry — they reflect the age and authenticity of the piece, not flaws. We describe the true condition of every item honestly in its listing.
What do the hallmarks and maker's marks mean?
Hallmarks are small stamped marks that identify the metal standard, and often the maker, assay office, and date. They are one of the best tools for authenticating antique jewelry. We identify and explain the marks we find on each piece in its description, and we're happy to send close-up photographs of any hallmark on request so you can see exactly what you're buying.
Can pieces be resized or adjusted?
It depends on the piece. Many antique rings can be resized, but bands with all-around engraving, thin shanks, or gemstones near the base may be limited in how far they can safely go, and some pieces are best left as-is to preserve their integrity. We list each item's measurements as they currently are. If you're unsure whether something can be safely adjusted, contact us before buying and we'll give you an honest assessment for that specific piece.
How should I care for and store fine jewelry?
Clean gently with a soft cloth, avoid harsh chemicals, ultrasonic cleaners, and chlorine, and store pieces separately so they don't scratch one another. Remove rings and bracelets for heavy manual tasks. Antique gold is softer than modern alloys, so period pieces are best enjoyed with normal care. Treated well, fine antique jewelry lasts for generations — many of our pieces are already a century or more old and still beautiful.
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